What is the white stuff under the grips screws?

[PsychoSword]

Here's what worked for me. I too rounded out the hex in the screw and couldn't get one out.

Get some good industrial epoxy and put a little on your hex head wrench, insert into the screw head. Let it set up over night and it will come right out. I know if I tried my dremel tool I would be ordering a new set of grips.

Interesting idea, thank you. Do you remember what brand of epoxy you used? The screws are in their so hard, I'm afraid my new little wrench might break. I should have ordered two at the same time.

[tracker]

Brenden is right, if it don't fiddle don't flip with it. I asked
Maria about removing the right grip panel; she checked with
Karl and he said, "why is he doing that?" There is no reason
to remove the grip panels unless you just have an over
whelming desire to screw things up.[pun intended]

[45ACP2GO]

Interesting idea, thank you. Do you remember what brand of epoxy you used? The screws are in their so hard, I'm afraid my new little wrench might break. I should have ordered two at the same time.

I use Locktight Fixmaster Epoxy. You can get it at Grainger or any industrial supplier. The stuff works so good after it sets up I have used it to fill in cracks or holes in metal and file it down. If you use it though make sure you let it set up for 24 hours and it works great.

Probably the best thing said by tracker is don't fiddle with it. Unfortunately I had a little malfunction with the trigger assy and need to check to springs. Once I tried only 1 screw froze up.

I really love my Glocks but since I have had this little pup my Glocks have taken a back seat in this hot spell were having.

[PsychoSword]

Psychosword ,take  it easy guy,"Do not get screwed by the screws" .There is an old post over a year ago that another fellow member changed the screws on his Rohrbaugh handgun,.here is the info relating to that very post  ----1/4 inch..long screws with 3-48 threads,using stainless Philips flat-heads screws. Good luck!  

Been searching for that thread, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who made the post and where he ordered the replacements from? Did he get them from Rohrbaugh?

The white stuff being corroded aluminum sounds correct to me. I remember one time changing the grip on an Inox Beretta 92FS and encountered basically the same thing.

[Richard S]

PS:

This thread contains at the bottom a detailed drawing with measurements of the grip screws which Chris provided:

http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Gunsmith;action=display;num=1115654835;start=7#7

[PsychoSword]

PS:

This thread contains at the bottom a detailed drawing with measurements of the grip screws which Chris provided:

http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Gunsmith;action=display;num=1115654835;start=7#7

Thanks buddy!! I'll have to make it to the hardware store sometime soon.

[PsychoSword]

Yikes... I found another wrench in the back of the closet and I tried to remove the bottom left screw and the end of my Craftsman mini wrench broke off. What a ridiculous grip screw design if I ever saw one.. Luckily, part of it was sticking out and I was able to pull it out carefully. Almost scratched the grips, but all is well. I have always hated these types of screws for gun grips and here is one of the reasons why..

I think R5XX will be heading back to the factory since I also have a minor issue with trigger take-up, though I'm really not looking forward to the $50+ overnight shipping bill.

[chameleon]

What is the factory's method of removing the screws?
That's where I'm sending it to have it done, these screws are redicules to remove.

[Reinz]

Not that I am for the allen head design, but anytime you get corrosion involved you've got trouble no matter which way you look at it.


Reinz

[pbwe]

I support Reinz's explanation.  Unless the Manufacturer is intentionally applying some type of compound, the white substance sounds like aluminum corrosion byproduct.  The mechanism is galvanic corrosion, and yes, the electrolyte can be formed from moisture condensed out of the air.  In this context, the aluminum frame material is anodic to the steel/stainless-steel screw material.  The thing about corrosion byproduct is that it is less dense than the metal and hence occupies a larger volume.  This explains the seizing and lock-up of the screw.  The Manufacturer should make some effort to coat the thread and/or prevent air from getting to the threads interface: lithium grease comes to mind, applied to the threads with a toothpik.  I would predict that grip screws that are not removed over a period of many years (owners just leave the OEM grips undisturbed) will likely become frozen and unremovable, and how quickly this happens should depend on the environment: faster in Florida than Pheonix.  

[JohnBT]

I tried to remove the screws Sunday, but couldn't budge one of them with the short end of a good - very good in fact - wrench. Anybody need a set or two of screws?  

I'm guessing the grips on mine haven't been off in years, if ever - early 6xx SN. Maybe I'll put a half a drop of Kroil on each one and see if it'll break them loose. Maybe I won't - if it ain't broke, etc.

I did change the recoil spring and it was much simpler than I expected. I almost got it back in without using channelocks.

I still haven't changed the mag springs because I want to compare/shoot the two old mags against the two new ones with the new recoil spring in the gun.

John

[Richard S]

I checked my recoil spring after 50 rds. It was a coil shorter than a new one. I've read post where people wait till there 2 coils shorter before they change them. To each there own. $5 a pop per spring is it worth your life?

Those are certainly words by which to live!    

I have adopted the practice with my R9 of changing recoil springs after 100 rounds and have a number of replacement springs stored in the gun safe. In a previous post, I recalled some former experience I had with raising thoroughbred horses and likened the R9 to a thoroughbred. They both require careful attention, but they're hard to beat when kept "ready to race."

[Brenden]

As I recall,the recommendations were to make sure that the grip screws were snug,and did not loosen up..
Not to take the screws out  

I agree that you should be able to take them out easier,and not bugger them up,that is why the pup that I carry get's the snug test,and have never been off!!

No problems as yet..

BTW-I have missed a bunch of new people on the forum-Welcome,and enjoy your pups!!

Brenden

[Brenden]

I just shot mine today. I was cleaning it and decided to take the grips off. Screws came out fine! So did the spring and bar  for the trigger. Had me stumped for a minute, but got it back together. The oil on the screws is working fine for me. No white stuff on the screws and they came out easy.

WS6,
 Are you having a problem with your trigger system?Is this why you want to check it out?
There have been a few problems with the screws backing out,causing a problem with the trigger mechanism..

I understand that a very slight lube in there is a good thing,but it comes that way from the R-Bros..
There has been discussion on the board before about using loctite to make sure they didn't loosen up!!

Untill I have any trigger related problems,I am not going to worry about it..

Brenden

[JohnBT]

"I have adopted the practice with my R9 of changing recoil springs after 100 rounds"

I was told the new ones I just bought were good for 250 rounds.

FWIW, the one I took out of the gun was about 2 coils shorter than the original replacement in the box and the 5 new ones I bought. The previous owner reportedly shot 200 rounds and I shot 101.

John