Grip screws

[Aglifter]

My pistol has ~200 rounds through it, and the screws won't move a bit, never have.  We took my father's out for the first time today, and it needed a little snugging after 30 rounds -- which is normal?

[tracker]

Agman,
I don't know which is normal but I do know that you have
given us another excellent reason to put tape on the grips.

[sslater]

Wow!  Your screws must have been really tight.  Mine loosened up after about 100 rounds.

Only thing I can think to do is strip the top end off your gun, wipe all the grease off the frame and put it in the oven at 200 degrees or so for an hour.  The aluminum frame material will expand more than the steel screws, and the carbon fiber grips shouldn't be affected. (We used to hit the spark plugs on hot race engines with a shot of CO₂ to get them out between rounds without yanking the threads out of the aluminum cylinder heads.)
Two warnings: 1. Check with Rohrbaugh on the carbon fiber temperature resistance.  2. Have a very understanding wife.  If you're single - ignore #2.

Makes you wonder how the Rohrbaugh factory tightens those screws without stripping the heads.  I didn't notice any thread lock residue on mine.

Steve

[Michigunner]

I haven't got up the courage to remove the grip screws.  I bet a bunch of little springs would jump out on the floor.

[tracker]

Steve,
I think what Aglifter was saying was is that his screws were
snug-which is good; and his father's had loosened a bit.

Maybe I am missing something but I am not about to do any
oven treatment. I didn't understand why you were proposing
a solution when there wasn't any problem.

[Michigunner]

tracker,

The right grip may be removed to allow a visual inspection of the trigger housing and the sear, according to the manual.

I personally don't want to inspect it, just to be safe, although I would for $20.00.

Bill

[R9SCarry]

We had a grip screw thread way back - but let me suggest a trip to FAQ site - where I refer to some aspects of those screws - HERE.

I do not feel this grip panel needs removed often at all.  If that is done there will not be springs popping everywhere - only one spring may want to escape (the trigger return spring) and care removing panel will safeguard against this.  There are pics of the ''innards'' on that new PDF file as well as another page on FAQ - those who are unfamiliar please go and look - know what is under there.

Re those screws - they need cinched up or checked - that panel is ''structural'' to the gun's mechanics and must stay done up.  Other extreme is if they are held tight by Loctite.

PLEASE - if you wish to remove those, and they can be tight - ONLY use a quality Allen wrench.  I say this often but cheapie ones can be sloppy and ruin the screw head hex.

Wrench must be proper 1/16" (0.0625").  Then even if tight, a release should be achievable - replacement then being aided by Loctite reapplication.

[Aglifter]

I have a craftsman professional wrench set, so that's not the problem -- mine don't move, as in, I can't move them, or at least the screws don't come out with as much torque as I'm willing to apply.  That's what I'm concerned about.  I'll give R a call next week.

[sslater]

Tracker,
In my book, being able to get the grips off for maintenance is important.  How else can you lube the trigger and transfer bar pivots?  I want to keep that trigger silky smooth, just like it came from the factory.  I sure don't want to squirt oil into a carry piece in hopes of some of it getting to the right places.



Steve

[Michigunner]

Thanks, Steve.

After reviewing the FAQ again, it's clear that the right grip should be removed so the oil can be applied properly.

Bill

[FB3]

I have heard that some folks have had oversized torx grip screws installed on their R9's.  This is a very easy procedure and would facilitate easy removal/installation of the grips for routine cleaning and lubrication.  

However, this may affect the warranty for original owners, so I am not advocating this modification.  If I decide to keep mine, I definitely plan on having this done.  I am just used to removing grips from 1911's on a regular basis for routine cleaning, and reasonably sized torx or allen screws are easy to remove, and hold the grips in place very well.

[Aglifter]

Well, Maria said they use loctite to hold the screws, anyone know what grade?

[Richard S]

This may be the thread to which Chris referred:

http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Gunsmith;action=display;num=1115654835;start=7#7

[R9SCarry]

Here is a link to what I recall is our standard medium strength stuff - the ''blue''.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=20&layout=2

Listed as 242® Threadlocker Medium Strength

[Aglifter]

I called Maria, and she said they use the low strength -- but Dad's didn't have any on his, and mine cannot be the low strength loctite.  Took it to my local smith yesterday, and we tried putting torque on the screw and then just let it sit under tension for a few minutes, to try and see if it would come out -- didn't work -- I'm starting to wonder if maybe my threads are messed up somehow, but it seems more likely that they tried a different strength of loctite than that they messed up both screws --- we might rig up something to let it sit under tension for a few days --