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R9 Covert is back in action!

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backupr9:
In several previous posts my poor ol’ Covert got real sick.  First a broken slide retention pin allowed the pieces to bang up the rails...had to bang the back of the slide with a rubber hammer to break it free (Eric’s advice: “Hit it with a hammer’, my kind of mechanic!).  After smoothing everything out several times, I fired it a couple of times, then suddenly the trigger just flopped around (previous post).  Eric again rode to the rescue for a broken hammer bar...replaced.  Unfortunately, when I had the pistol completely apart, I mixed up the hammer pin (shorter) with the trigger pin (longer).  In consequence, the right grip did not sit as tightly at the rear, and did not keep the trigger bar on the hammer....fiddled around ‘till I figured that one our (thought about the rubber hammer trick, but could not where to hit it).   After that it worked fine with snap caps, but the first shot at the ranged resulted, again, with a loose trigger, corrected by turning the pistol on one side...trigger bar still slipping off the hammer.  Tightened the trigger bar spring with needle nose pliers.  Went to the range again today, EUREKA!  40 rounds down range with one failur to eject/feed (limp wrist for sure).  THANK YOU ERIC FOR YOUR PATIENT ASSISTANCE.  I do hope you are feeling better.
John

tracker:
Well done, John. In aviation we called the fine art of hammer maintenance: Malletizing.

ECR:
Yes John, after almost 5 weeks, my chest has seemed to clear itself of a nasty bout of bronchitis. Thank you for your "behind the scenes diagnosis", most informative good Sir!
I'm glad to see your ole' gal is kicking once again also. If you have any other issues along the way, please feel free to contact me.

Best to you John.

Eric R.

backupr9:
Eric, I must say that having the pistol (almost) completely apart was an education...what a simple genius design!  The only thing I could not do was get the broken hammer bar off of the hammer.  I had a pin driver but just could not move the pin...the extra hammer and bar were much needed.  Is there a trick other than a stronger hammer?

ECR:

--- Quote from: backupr9 on February 12, 2019, 05:24:57 PM ---Eric, I must say that having the pistol (almost) completely apart was an education...what a simple genius design!  The only thing I could not do was get the broken hammer bar off of the hammer.  I had a pin driver but just could not move the pin...the extra hammer and bar were much needed.  Is there a trick other than a stronger hammer?

--- End quote ---

Hey John,

If you take a look at the hammer / strut assembly, you will notice that the machined hole that the hammer strut pin goes in to has two sizes. We installed the strut pin from the right hand side of the hammer. When we manufactured the hammer, one of the program parameters was to drill from the right hand side and stop short of going all the way through the left hand side of the hammer. That gave us a smaller hole on the left side allowing us to install the hammer strut pin from the right hand side in a jig holding the assembly together while we taped the pin through to the other side. Being the left side was not drilled all of the way through, it acts as a stop so the pin actually is pressed into place not allowing it to come apart. If you take a flat punch that is thin enough to fit into the hole on the left hand side of the hammer while it is in a vise, you can tap the pin out, replace the strut and then put the pin back in place from the right side. It’s that simple.

Hope this little explanation helps everybody out there. I’m sure it will come in handy one day when I’m no longer around, although, I’m sure you would have figured that out anyway once you gave it a more thorough look.

Regards,

Eric R.

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