The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Cleaning and Maintenance of the R-9 => Topic started by: Chief-USN on June 04, 2010, 11:06:28 AM
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I was wondering what you guys use to soak various internal gun parts in when doing a detail cleaning. Something that would break down Carbon deposits, oil, grease, dirt , etc.
Would carberater cleaner work? Does good on carbon on carbs.
Chief
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I started using Eezox recently and really like it. I don't soak the parts as I haven't had to. This is really good stuff.
http://www.eezox.info/truth.html
http://www.eezox.info/
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Here is another excellent cleaning product.
http://secure.armorholdings.com/kleen-bore/gunchemicals.html
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C L P....Breakfree that is.. ;)
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Ballistol.
http://www.ballistol.com/
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I would stay away from the carb cleaner to soak parts in as there are too many great products designed for gun cleaning.
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I have had good results with Aero kroil, the only downside is it is a petroleum based product, and should only be used in an adequately ventilated area. The Eezox is also good.
John
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I like that Eezox. Used it today. Even has a good smell; to me, anyway!
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In the Army, we used carb cleaner on M16/M4, but the direct impingement system causes MUCH more carbon fouling than on pistolo. For powder/lead, I'd stick with something much less harsh (Hoppe's, Kroil, etc).
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I started using WC ultima-lube II carbon cleaner. It seems to work well.
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There's a lot of great answers here; just have to pick one and try it.
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There's a lot of great answers here; just have to pick one and try it.
Agreed
I shoot hundreds of rounds every weekend in multiple guns in competition and sometimes go months between cleaning.
I've tried everything listed here and then some.
Nothing, even Carb cleaner, or carbon killer has bested good ol' Hoppes # 9 yet.
I just keep on coming back to it.
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Hoppes #9 is good. I still have a couple gun cleaning kits that it came in; still use it on occasion, especially in Ga; don't have to take gun cleaning products back and forth. Good stuff.
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I Use #9 on occasion but keep finding myself going back to what I used in Viet Nam, Still works great. Ever wonder when you see old pictures of soldiers in Viet Nam many have a green bottle in the attached to their helmet what it is? No it is not mosquito repellant... it is good old Break Free. We used it on everything from M16's to 81MM Mortars. Good Stuff for soaking, just remember to shake well before using, If you ever see some in a glass jar you would understamd.
Chief
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You learn something new every day.
I never new they used break free in VN.
Hey if it still works, you have to use what you know.
I have never used it on a firearm, just some automotive jobs around the house.
Thanks Chief :)
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It was especially effective on 50cal and M-60 guns. We used to get the stuff by the Drum. Works great, been around a long time.
Chief
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I Use #9 on occasion but keep finding myself going back to what I used in Viet Nam, Still works great. Ever wonder when you see old pictures of soldiers in Viet Nam many have a green bottle in the attached to their helmet what it is? No it is not mosquito repellant... it is good old Break Free. We used it on everything from M16's to 85MM Mortars. Good Stuff for soaking, just remember to shake well before using, If you ever see some in a glass jar you would understamd.
Chief
I used to use nothing but Break Free about 20 years ago when I shot IPSIC and it worked great.
But I ran into a problem when I crossed over and used it on my safe queens and carry guns. (Autos only)
If the pistol sat for say 6 months or so untouched, the slide kind of froze up. The Break Free dried up into a hard laquer and glued the slides to the barrels. Cycling the slide did take quite a bit of effort, but then there was no lube, just hard laquer.
I have not touched the stuff since. ( I said laquer not liquer) ;D
Now I know that this would not apply to Nam.
If I did try it again; I have won many bottles and cans of it at matches, I would be sure to work the actions weekly.
Just my experience.
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Thank you Reinz. I never new it would do that. I'll have to be careful if I use any on my guns.
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I used to use nothing but Break Free about 20 years ago when I shot IPSIC and it worked great.
But I ran into a problem when I crossed over and used it on my safe queens and carry guns. (Autos only)
If the pistol sat for say 6 months or so untouched, the slide kind of froze up. The Break Free dried up into a hard laquer and glued the slides to the barrels. Cycling the slide did take quite a bit of effort, but then there was no lube, just hard laquer.
I have not touched the stuff since. ( I said laquer not liquer) ;D
Now I know that this would not apply to Nam.
If I did try it again; I have won many bottles and cans of it at matches, I would be sure to work the actions weekly.
Just my experience.
Stormy. Thanks for the heads up. I was getting ready to try this stuff; not that it doesn't have its place.
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I am sure if you clean off the cleaner it would work.
Use Break Free to clean the stubborn carbon and clean off the break free with carb cleaner. Its just a thought?
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That would probably work!
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I cannot why it would not. Once you clean the cleaner, apply you lubricant of choice.
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I keep coming back to Eezox. It just works, as do the others, I suppose.
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You have to use what works for you! ;D
On this subject everyone seems to have a: this works for me.
Use what you know and what work best for you.
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Yep! That's why the Eezox! ;)
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I used Remoil for a long time and switched to WC Ultimalube.
It has worked for me for almost 3 years! :)
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Must work for you! :)
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I Soak small parts such as recoil springs, firing pins, and extractors in Break free while cleaning the rest of the gun useing Hornady one shot cleaner / Lube. After that I use Gun Butter on slide/Barrel/Bushing friction points. Guns always run but then again I have no safe queens and they all get taken out for excersize.
Chief
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Chief
Do you clean off the Break Clean before lubrication?
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Just a thought. I'll bet he does. :)
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I wipe it off with a rag then apply some Otis oil using a clean patch, I also run a Bore snake with a little otis oil on it through the barrel.
Chief
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Thanks for the info. :)
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I thought he would. The Chief does good! :)
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I wipe it off with a rag then apply some Otis oil using a clean patch, I also run a Bore snake with a little otis oil on it through the barrel.
Chief
Just out of curiosity, have you ever asked yourself why (other than from habit) you are putting a light coat of oil on the inside of the barrel? In the case of the military weapons you have mentioned like M16's etc all the way up to the M2 50 Cal, they are all hard chrome lined or stellite lined. In the case of the Rohrbaugh it is stainless steel. I suspect this is how you, like I ,were trained, especially in the military. I'm pretty sure this is a hold over that the military has taught since before the days of chrome lined and stellite lined barrels and is a hold over from corrosive ammunition. In US ammunition the manufacture of military ammunition with corrosive priming compounds ended sometime in the mid 50's. The last commercial ammo that I personally know of that was loaded with corrosive priming in this country was some lots of 300 H&H that Olin loaded for the Wimbleton Cup around 1959.
The old cliche about "can't hurt, might help," doesn't apply here because in some cases it does. Long range shooters from Marine Scout Snipers to heavy competitive long range shooters have to have a bone dry barrel or else their zero will change after they fire 2 to 5 shots and the barrel is now bone dry and fouled. Hence the term "fouling shot". When I learned that during Police Rifle Instructor and Long Range Rifle Instructor programs, which were and are still taught by former members of the Marine MTU from Quantico, I quit doing it on all weapons period. If you like doing it then I'm all for you doing what winds your watch. All I say is, think about it for a minute.
I was taught to do the exact same thing by my father who was retired Army and in the military during my time in the 60's.
The only time I do it now is during periods of long term storage for weapons that do not have chrome lined or stainless barrels. In my M1A's for example the one with a GI barrel by Springfield has chrome lining. My National Match doesn't have chrome lining and I would oil it for storage but if I'm going to shoot it, no. My sniper rifles I never oil because I don't know when I might need them. I also store all my long guns muzzle down in my safe so that no oils accumulate in the stock area of those that have wooden stocks. That's why the old surplus military rifles stocks are all turning black around the metal is due to oil soaking and standing them in rifle racks butt down. Everywhere they are black the wood is soft and pulpy which is a deterent to accuracy.
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Very good points Flinghost!
So many guys just don't get it, but you nailed it!
Very true of jackedt bullets.
However, for those that shoot lead cast bullets in their 45 autos, wonder nines or any other gun, it is a good idea to coat the bore and I will explain.
Most folks think that bullet lube is on the cast lead bullet to lube "that" particular bullet down the bore.
But that is not the case.
The lube is there to be left behind to lube the NEXT bullet coming after it.
This is what prevents leading, assuming you are shooting the properly sized bullet. NO it is not all about hardness. That is what one particular bullet company has marketed you into thinking.
So - after you are done shooting and you clean your bore, now there is no lube there to prevent leading for that first round you fire on your next outing.
Here is where a well oiled patch or a grease patch is a good idea. And of course one or two fouling shoots as well when you go to the range.
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Very good points Flinghost!
So many guys just don't get it, but you nailed it!
Very true of jackedt bullets.
However, for those that shoot lead cast bullets in their 45 autos, wonder nines or any other gun, it is a good idea to coat the bore and I will explain.
Most folks think that bullet lube is on the cast lead bullet to lube "that" particular bullet down the bore.
But that is not the case.
The lube is there to be left behind to lube the NEXT bullet coming after it.
This is what prevents leading, assuming you are shooting the properly sized bullet. NO it is not all about hardness. That is what one particular bullet company has marketed you into thinking.
So - after you are done shooting and you clean your bore, now there is no lube there to prevent leading for that first round you fire on your next outing.
Here is where a well oiled patch or a grease patch is a good idea. And of course one or two fouling shoots as well when you go to the range.
I would agree with that entirely. I hadn't considered it since I do not shoot plain lead very much anymore. I do occasionally shoot it in a .45 but when the supply of H&G 68's is gone so will the lead be. I do shoot lead in my .41 mag but it is gas checked and I get very little leading. Also it gets stored for long periods since my S&W 58 is only for back packing and it's been a while since I did that. I normally keep full house 210 jsp's in it for backpacking. They will handle both two and four legged predators in the rockies.
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Love those 41's!
they are a might too girly for KJ though ;D
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Never had a .41. ;D
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case in point :D
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Don't want one! ;D Another case in point! :D
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Great minds.....
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There ya go! ;)
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I was first taught to lightly oil the inside of the Barrel of a weapon (In fact most of the weapon) by my Dad at a very early age, Then when I entered the Navy it was also pushed hard, the Majority of the weapons I was dealing with were Heavy Barreled M-2's (50 Cal) and M-60's with a handful of Thumpers (M-79 Grenade Launchers) M-16's everyone had those, and some .45's and shotguns. It is a habit I still carry over. I shoot a Lead/copper mix of bullets. If I shoot lead I always finish up with some FMJ ammo to kind of clean the bore out. As I am not attempting any 1000 yard shots (Except with the Rohrbaugh :) )I am of the "Can't hurt, Might Help crowd". Just don't like the idea of a Dry Weapon I guess. ;D You know the old saying about "Old habits die hard" I know guys that do not clean their weapons after each use, but I am also stuck in the mode of Unfinished business when I do not clean them. Maybe I am just a little obsessed, it just reassures me to break them down, clean, inspect, lubricate, and reassemble. (Also gives me something to do while everyone leaves me alone (Golden Retriever and wife need lots of attention) ;D
Chief
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SPAMMER! Banned. Bye bye.
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!!!We've been infiltrated!!! >:(
Sic'd the GATOR on her!
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Already done.
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Target eliminated. No collateral damage. Return to DEFCON 1. ;D
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Saw a guest here.
looked / thought needs a bump.
What about contact cleaner, some one here said gun smith said to,
bought some - big bucks / yet to try.
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This is the best gun cleaner, imo: I think you are referring to one of my earlier posts as a recommendation from my gunsmith.
http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/591
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I do not have that one.
I think it is LPS CFC free nu