The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Gunsmithing or Modifications for your Rohrbaugh => Topic started by: Richard S on June 01, 2004, 12:01:26 AM
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My R9s 132 came with Torx No. 7 grip screws. I assume that all of the current R9 series use the same screws. Be careful when removing them. Torx No. 7 is a small screw head and can be easily stripped. Also, the male grip studs are fitted tightly into the female receptacles of the frame. A fine blade carefully applied to one of the bottom corners of the grips may be required to pop the panel free of the frame. When removing the right grip panel, take care not to disturb the trigger mechanism -- unless you want to reassemble the parts. If such is needed, just study the various parts -- trigger, bar, spring . . . . Two coils of the spring fit over two posts in the frame, the large coil rests in a groove in the grip, and the bitter end of the spring fits into a small hole in the bar. Interesting, simple, . . . an inspired design -- but be aware that it is a design which requires good light and a stable platform to field-strip and clean the weapon, especially when taking it down to the level of inspecting the trigger mechanism.
The more I learn about the Rohrbaughs, the more I like them. (This certainly ain't my old 1911!")
RS
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Hopefully, the guys at Rohrbaugh are realizing this small weak link and will go to a harder tempered screw, or some suitable fix.
My friend Richard is a *Wordsmith*,...and most of us know, a Lawyer KNOWS how to use a screwdriver !
>>>>>>>;D<<<<<<<<
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Well, now I know the factory guys are reading this forum. I got an eMail from Eric, they are right on top of the grip screw problem. That is very reassuring !! ;D
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My grip screws are plain hex ... taking a 1/16 allen. Does seem important that the allen is not sub-size .. or these can begin to look chewed. Harder ones would be nice.
I forgot to ask Eric ... and didn't want to bother him specially ... but those right hand ones that are so important .. wonder whether it is OK to apply a smidgeon of blue Loctite. I checked mine after my test shoot and they did need a tweak.
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I was told today, by Eric, the grip screw problem is SOLVED. A higher grade[hardness] of screw will be used.
PLUS, It's a *Torq* design [five pointed Star]
This will much better.
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I wonder if he is (will be) able to supply these to us existing owners. I would certainly like to upgrade mine, but hesitate to want to bother him for something minor.
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Eric's words were, "We are currently working on custom screws made specifically to our specifications for that application". So it seems they are not available at this time, but will be at some future time.
I would wait until they start showing up, I have a three month wait yet on my Rohrbaugh.
If it has them, I will post..
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8)
Thanks RJ
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Anyone with a torch can use Casenite powder and harden "soft" parts, to a degree adequate to handle screwdriver slot or allen head problems. Such casehardening does, however, make blueing a bit hard to match.
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Thanks......
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Thanks RJ. 2 down and 1 to go!
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Has anyone gotten replacement screws for their grips? From Rohrbaugh,.. or any other source ?
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Not as yet RJ ...... I am hoping that sometime Eric will let us know that new and harder screws are available. For now I have not wanted to hassle him over it.
I've not checked dia, TPI etc ... to I/D the thread but rather doubt it'll be the kinda screw pattern you'll find anywhere else - well, not easily!
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I thought/ hoped it would be something a knife maker supply would have, but don't know how to identify the screw, any help out there??
http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm?TKS_FolderKits2.htm~smain
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Give me a bit of time . I'll mic one up and get the thread data .........
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The best info I can come up with, is that the grip screw is a 3-48 with 3/16" for the length.
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RJ .... threaded portion seems shorter than true 3/16" .... , which'd be 0.1875" ... it seems to mic at 0.161 or so. I think the depth is pretty critical probably, tho 3/16" ''NOM'' - might be OK! :)
I agree .... 3-48 for thread. I took a while cos drew up a quick CAD sketch ... not to scale but ... close as I can get quickly - this seems to be the screw. In fact one from left side but assume hopefully - all four the same!!
(http://www.acbsystems.com/boards/thr/shoot4/R9-gripscrew.gif)
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I think that screw, a flathead, is measured overall for a length. I could be wrong, well, I COULD be, :)
that's a NICE drawing !!
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Could well be this countersunk jobbie at 0.246 is in fact a 1/4" nom overall length - so could even be a std item. What's 4 thou between buddies! ;D
My measuring was quick - with verniers .. if mic'd properly it'd be more asccurate than this.
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Somewhere between the two of us is about right. My screw was an allen head, and other are saying theirs are Torq head, so there are varations I'm sure.. I'm going to check around here, if I find them, I will post here..
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This is where you guys really lose me. You may as well be speaking a foreign language... although I'm glad folks know about this stuff and that some of those folks are members of this forum.
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Can someone explain to me the thread measurment--"3-48/" I am en engineering moron, but I can learn.
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George .. the ''48'' is TPI .... or turns of thread (helix) per one inch of length. This is coarse thread version TPI - fine would be 56 for this dia.
The ''3'' is a size/dia designation. In the Unified National system, numbers are used up until 12, and then we go on fractional, with 1/4" first, and on up from there.
TPI increases as dia's get larger.
Help a bit?
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I don't think we should be teachin' George stuff. A small bit of information could become dangerous in un-trained hands. ;)
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A small bit of information could become dangerous in un-trained hands.
Hehe! (http://www.acbsystems.com/images/smilies/lol.gif)
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Eric just sent me eight replacement grip screws. The packing sheet describes them as ".062 Allen."
RS
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Do they take an Allen wrench, or a Torx bit ?
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".062 Allen." .........
That designation RJ would mean hex' ... Allen. In fact theoretically the 1/16" Allen should be designated 0.064".
I wonder if these are any harder.... I must get spares soon when I order some spare springs.
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Call me old-fashioned, but I don't see anything wrong with using plain old Peacemaker-style domed-head slotted screws. Sure would make it easier at the range to tweak 'em when they work loose from shooting (and would make replacement a lot simpler!). I know it would take away from the high-tech "modern" look of the piece, but hardened, stainless, slotted screws would get my vote. :P
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Rohrbaugh has hardened replacement screws. They just sent me two. Also they say use a 1/16 hexhead allen wrench. And the grips are on very tight, I had to work them off very slowly using my finger nail so as not to mar the finish.
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Kim:
You slipped in here under my radar screen. Welcome to the Forum.
You are right about the tight fit of the grip panels. That, I believe, is yet another tribute to the extraordinary engineering which has gone into the Rohrbaugh design.
RS
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Bringing this topic forward, has anyone found an exact replacement grip screw in a "TORX" head? Length is unimportant as it is easy to shorten a screw.
Allen head (hex head) is WAY too old school as they round out rather easy.
PursuitSS
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Must confess I have not explored finding a Torx head tho for sure that would be preferable.
I am thinking that this would tho be right down the low end of Torx sizings and still therefore also require a good quality wrench.
As I have mentioned several times, the critical thing with the Allen config is - having and using only a high quality wrench - a genuine 1/16 (0.0625"). If the wrench used is even a thou undersize then deformation can occur and soon marr the head.
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Sheesh! I was just wondering what to do about that stripped grip screw on the right grip of my R9. Seems when I sent it in for 'tweaking' they sent me a note gently ribbing me that my grip housing was dusty. So, dutifully, and fearfully, I decided to remove the grips at the next cleaning (got the left one off with no problem), but I believe they loctite'd my other grip screw to the extent that the screw stripped when applying the appropriate torx head to remove the screw.
So, how DO you get a stripped screw out? Do I have to send it to the factory? (Boo! Hiss!) Should I just leave it?
Enquiring minds want to know.
Tia
Peter Torx
I was told today, by Eric, the grip screw problem is SOLVED. A higher grade[hardness] of screw will be used.
PLUS, It's a *Torq* design [five pointed Star]
This will [work] much better.
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So, how DO you get a stripped screw out? Do I have to send it to the factory? (Boo! Hiss!) Should I just leave it?
Enquiring minds want to know.
Back in the "early days" of 2004, I stripped one of my R9's grip screws and managed to remove it with a small damaged-screw remover inserted in a power drill set on slow reverse. It's not a job for the faint of heart -- in fact, it was probably a reckless act on my part. Anyway, luck favored me that day. The screw came out with no damage being inflicted on the grip panel or frame.
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You can drill it and use an "easy out" screw removal tool that fits into tap handle. Make sure to tap on the tap handle with a mallet to seat the easy out snugly. You could drill the head off and then cut a small slot in what is left and use a small common screw driver tip to remove it or a pair of good locking pliers. You could also use a dremel tool and use it to remove the head and then go back and cut a slot in the screw shank with a dremel cut off disc or use pliers. If you are not handy, go and see someone we is. The average bear will make a mess of this. I hope this helps.
Respectfully,
Jim
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You would think that Rohrbaugh would have gotten the idea that the right grip screws were in too tight after all of the stripped screws.