The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Cleaning and Maintenance of the R-9 => Topic started by: Michigunner on September 23, 2005, 04:56:55 PM
-
I finally took the R9S apart today, in preparation for a long-term carry session.
The re-assembly was one of the most unpleasant encounters I've ever had wih a firearm. Next time, I'm seriously thinking of taking it to a gun shop.
I used some coarse words.
We need a tool.
Bill (I edited this post because it was too grouchy)
-
Hey Bill, easy big guy!!!!
Settle down and take a deep breath.
Did you rush the job or give yourself lots of time?
Tom
-
Hey Bill,
Just how far did you break it down?
-
Tom, I don't know. It was like a big blur.
itguy, I did the standard breakdown, but did not remove the right grip.
Well, now that the ordeal is over, it is clear that the next time will be easier. It probably just takes a little practice. Usually the first time stripping a gun is a little awkward.
I apologize for the negative attitude.
Bill
-
I didn't find my new R-9S very easy to disassemble or reassemble either. It's a three-hand or two-person job removing and reseating that barrel pin!
I hope Mr. Hedley's "stop stick" helps. (I ordered one from him today.)
Just parenthetically, breaking down Kahr slides to their component parts is another task to frustrate even the truly-patient. Fortunately, I've now divested myself of those four Kahrs I had (nasty things!), in fact I traded in two of them when picking up the R-9S!
The R9 is much more nicely made and shows significantly better quality control than the Kahr products, IMNSHO.
-
SAWBONES,
RJ's StopStick helped me tremendously, both disassembly and reassembly.
I did ask my wife to help position the StopStick during reassembly.
The biggest problem I had was compressing the spring. I reluctantly used channel locks, per the instruction book.
Then, I could not get the slide to go back, so the pin could be reinserted. It was just inexperience during the initial effort.
I had to rack it real hard, and that opened things up so the StopStick could be inserted.
It wasn't much fun the first time, but should be just fine in the future.
One good idea is to place it in a vise, surrounded by protective leather, and proceed to work on it. RJ was kind enough to send some leather, upon request, along with my order.
My Kahr PM9 wasn't all that easy. I would bang on it with the plastic end of a screwdriver. And then, pry out the pin with a plastic orange peeler.
The R9S is a lot more fun to have, to look at, and carry.
Bill
-
I think we need to find a small pair of pliers made out of plastic, and cut out some material, as required. This would help get the spring compressed, and everthing put back together.
If anybody has an idea, would you please tell.
I was talking with 'mismatch' once, and he didn't feel good about using metal tools against the spring assembly.
I feel the same way. I hate to scratch the insides of a $1,000 gun using a metal appliance. Some kind of plastic apparatus would be highly desirable.
Bill
-
Michigunner,
You'll get the hang of it with practice. I don't like to chuck up those beautiful carbon fiber grips in my vise so I usually hold the gun in my hands & insert the Stop Stick with my teeth!!
As I mentioned B4, the trick in reinstalling the assembly pin is to insert the Stop Stick only as far as the disassembly mark you scribed on the stick. Then, with the gun turned left-side up, ease the slide back with your finger over the muzzle of the barrel. With minimal jiggling, the pin hole in the silde should then line up with the frame's hole.
BTW: I can now reassemble my .22 Ruger Mark II on the first try - as long as I review the instructions first. You have to point it up, sideways and down in the right order or you're in for an embarrassing trip to the gunsmith.
-
This is the beauty of the Rs over the R. Push the front sight against the edge of a wooden work bench just enough to see the pin and push through with a punch. I've been using the little tube that comes with bottles and cans of lubricant, like break free. reassebmly is the same to line everything up again. Problem is with slippery fingers on the reassembly. Try it after dinner and a few pops if you want some laughs. That's the roar in Rohrbaugh you hear.
HiCap
-
Thanks, gentlemen.
sslater, holding the StopStick in the mouth sounds like a good idea.
I was doing pretty well, except for getting the spring assembly back on the barrel, which was in the slide.
Practice will make everything right. :)
Bill
-
Do we have an engineer in the ranks, who could sketch appropriately shaped 'pliers', which we could cut from a plastic sheet, and maybe join with nut and bolt?
If such a person steps forward, I will sing folk songs about them for years into the future.
Bill
-
Find yourself a smaller pair of Channel Locks, the ones about 10'' long. Next, glue a small narrow strip of leather on the face of eack jaw, let dry well before using.. I have a pair I've used for a while.. Need leather, think of some old leather items you can cut up, don't cut up your holster, E-mail me.. :D
Edited to change from 6'' to 10'' channel locks..
-
Well, I now have an idea about a tool to get the spring back in place, rather than using channel lock pliers.
Would this work at all?
Take a strong piece of plastic, about the size of a popsycle stick, except maybe thicker and wider.
Cut it into two equal pieces.
On one side of each stick, in the middle, cut out a half-circle.
Then, put each stick on the appropriate part of the spring assembly, where the channel lock pliers went, using the half-circle to guide it into place.
With each hand, pull the two ends toward each other, which will compress the spring, while keeping the sticks parallel to each other.
Set the spring into its place, and release the pressure.
Any comments?
Bill
-
RJ,
I didn't see your post, before doing mine.
I'll pickup 6" channel lock pliers.
That sounds like a good idea.
Bill
-
Bill,
You have been on the forum longer than myself and you read all of the posts about stripping the R9 and reassembly - and you say it was still very hard the first time. Now you have me a little scared and my R9 isn't even here yet.
RJ's idea on the leather over channel locks seems graet. I see that Sears sales plactic covers for pliers and channel locks to protect the metal surface.
Let us know if it was easier the second time.
Dave
-
Hi Dave,
Some of us are cursed because of lack of mechanical ability.
There is a small group who are quick to say the light bulb will not go in, because it is not lined up right. That is, a special tool is needed for light bulb alignment.
If would be better for society if we remained in the background and kept our mouth shut.
Most people using RJ's StopStick, and small channel lock pliers should have minimum trouble the first timel.
After the initial effort, I expect no future problems.
Bill
-
Don't be so hard on yourself Bill..It's all in how you see a problem. I see the pliers as being fully up to the job, only having the undesirable effect of scaring the spring assembly, If that is the only problem,, fix that...with the leather. :)
I see a lot of the guys worrying about marring the gun, like with the brass punch, I use a steel punch, with a little care.. Same with the Stop Stick, the aluminum Stick is every bit as good as the brass one, but brass cost more.
** did you see I changed the 6'' pliers to 10'' ?? The jaws are more parallel at the wide setting..
-
RJ
Now what am I going to do with all of these 6" pliers I ran out this morning and bought?
Kidding. For some reason I collect all different kinds of pliers. I have several shelves of them in my Craftsman tool chest -- someone stop me please.
-
I just got my R-9S last week, and cleaned then reassembled it with just my fingers, but inserting the recoil spring assembly was nowhere near as easy as such things are with Glocks, HKs, Kahrs and Sigs.
I eventually got it, but it took minutes instead of seconds, and I believe I'll pick up a pair of 10" Channel Lock pliers at Ace today.
It's not a gun to be quickly and easily "field stripped!"
Such is the price of having as teensy a little 9mm pistol as possible, with no external protruberances, I guess.
-
SB
A number of people can do the spring assembly with their fingers. When I do mine for the first time I'm going to have the channel locks ready (RJs leather hint sounds good) although it may not be neccesary to take the the spring assemby out each time - I'll have to check Chris's FAC site to refresh my memory.
-
Mountainman
I just thought of another idea, ''How Build a Bird Feeder from 6'' Cchannel Locks'' ;D
I'm glad your were kiddin', your post hit the '' Oh Crap'' button for a minute there. !! :D :-[
-
RJ, I did go out and get the 6 1/2 inch, but no harm done. Everybody should have one anyway.
My other is a 9-10 incher.
I was going to use a 2 component epoxy glue for the leather to pliers bond. Does that sound OK?
Bill
-
2 component epoxy glue
----------------
Should be good, although some Brands tend to be slow to dry, I used a Contact Cement..
Sorry about that tool purchase... :-[
-
Bill - thick (gap-filling) CA adhesive will do well - and can be speeded by use of accelerent.
I think in the end with assembly/disassembly - nothing helps like practice. It is for most tricky first time or three but be assured - it does over time become much easier.
It is perhaps one of the hardest guns to re-assemble but - again, learning the knack does help. :)
-
Dave, I really like your new look!! That eagle looks very wise.
Tom
-
Tom
That Eagle was a picture from my Alaska trip - I just enlarged the head. Below is the original.
Dave
(http://www.thingameez.com/store/dave-mtnman/bald-eagle.jpg)
-
Dave you are the man a or eagle!!
Tom
-
That's incredible to have your own eagle picture.
Well done!
Bill
-
My recommendation would be a small pair of vice grips, not channel locks. With the vice grip you can preset the exact tolerance needed so when you snap it closed it always compresses the exact amount required - no more, no less. Makes reinserting the spring assembly a piece of cake!
RJ, I have a question for you (or others, for that manner). When I use the stop stick, I can line up the holes between both sides of the slide. However, the barrel drops down interfering with getting the pin to clear it. Do you have any recommendations on how to keep the barrel from dropping down and blocking the hole? Old butter fingers here had a terrible time with this :(
-
itguy, thanks for the excellent idea about pre-set vice grips. I'll check it out.
We also had a major problem with the holes being covered by the dropping barrel.
I just kept raising the barrel and taking a guess what was best.
The answer for this question will make things much better.
-
Dave:
That is a great photograph! Is that the mast of a sailboat which the eagle is using as a perch?
-
This ain't gonna help anyone - but using my old faithful genuine chopstick I don't think as yet I have had barrel drop down on me when inserting pin.
This might be because the wood of the chopstick deforms very slightly and thus holds barrel - aluminum, brass, nylon etc - may just be more slippy.
-
For what it's worth, following the 'successful' assembly I cycled a snap cap through the pistol about 3-4 times, and declared everything was OK.
I hope that is generally considered adequate for R9 assembly confirmation.
Thanks for all the good ideas mentioned in this thread.
Bill
-
Richard - yes that is a sailboat mast. At some places eagles were a common sight around the coast at salmon areas.
Good assembly discussion.
-
Richard
What many don't know is that it takes a long while before an eagle gets the classic look. Here is a picture of a younger eagle I took that is adult size.
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b216/melissa1948/P1000070.jpg)
-
Dave:
Another spendid photograph! Thank you for posting it.
Thanks to Dolly Parton and her Eagle Mountain Sanctuary, we have a small but growing colony of bald eagles in the Great Smoky Mountains. I saw one of them earlier this year flying just over the trees at our cabin outside Gatlinburg. It was gone before I could retrieve my camera, but what a magnificent sight it was!
Here is a link to some information on the Sanctuary: http://www.eagles.org/babyeaglets_5_00.html
-
Dave, thanks for another great picture of an eagle. They are something to behold! In the west they are somewhat common,thank God!
Tom
-
Richard,
Thanks for the great eagle article. We also see them at our place on Lake Huron.
Around 1975, we twice stayed at the Sheraton Gatlinburg. It seemed rather new then, and was up above the city on a hill top.
I remember eating at a great place downtown, where they served steaks, ribs, etc. There was a long line, but worth the wait.
Sorry, can't remember the name. It was "directly" below the Sheraton on the "main" street, in a cluster of buildings.
Bill
-
itguy,
Do you remember the size of your vice grips?
Are they a special brand and style?
Thanks,
Bill
-
Bill:
Was it the Brass Lantern Restaurant?
http://www.thebrasslanternrestaurant.com/
-
Richard,
The name Brass Lantern sure sounds correct, but it was a long time ago.
I just remember walking downtown from the Sheraton up on the hill, and then making a Right turn on the main street down there.
It was a few doors down on the right.
I probably should be thinking more about exercising, and less about good restaurants. :)
Bill
-
I find it difficult to believe that a pistol that costs so much and is of such high quality construction and design could have such a mess for assembly and disassembly. I cannot hold the slide back and engage a pin punch. I finally put a 0.125 rod in the hole and let the slide gently down on it. It lined up the pin holes exactly and I could push the pin out with ease. Surely another simple method can be designed to space it properly.
The guide rod reassembly is another disaster. A plastic tool to compress the spring and hold it while it can be reinserted would be a Godsend. Carrying a pair of 'channellock' type pliers, a hold open rod and an allen wrench seems to be an unacceptable solution. I can take apart my 1911s and Kahr with no tools.
Keep the good ideas coming,
RTOhio
-
I find it difficult to believe that a pistol that costs so much and is of such high quality construction and design could have such a mess for assembly and disassembly. I cannot hold the slide back and engage a pin punch. I finally put a 0.125 rod in the hole and let the slide gently down on it. It lined up the pin holes exactly and I could push the pin out with ease. Surely another simple method can be designed to space it properly.
The guide rod reassembly is another disaster. A plastic tool to compress the spring and hold it while it can be reinserted would be a Godsend. Carrying a pair of 'channellock' type pliers, a hold open rod and an allen wrench seems to be an unacceptable solution. I can take apart my 1911s and Kahr with no tools.
Keep the good ideas coming,
RTOhio
-
rt - I have not said welcome I think :) Welcome!!
Please take some time to browse my FAQ site (link in sig) - there are videos and a PDF which could help a bit. The vids are of me doing ''my thing'' and the larger PDF and video version is Eric doing his - series of stills. It'd seem you have tried ''going it alone'' thus far.
I will admit - R9 strip and particularly reassembly is ''tricky'' - but not difficult. It also gets easier.
The very nature of the gun - no external frills like a slide stop etc do indeed make it awkward. I think tho overall everyone here has now (if owning one) got to grips with it so it easier then originally. I do not equate high cost to the difficulties - they are a consequence of design.
Go to these pages -
My method Vids (http://www.acbsystems.com/boards/rohrbaugh/basefile/vids.htm)
Video and PDF of Eric method (http://www.acbsystems.com/boards/rohrbaugh/basefile/vid-stills.htm)
-
rtohio
RJ on the forum sells a "stop stick" in brass or aluminim to hold the slide back to remove the pin - pm him.
http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Accessories;action=display;num=1119102502;start=0#0
-
Thanks for the suggestions. I have watched the videos and read many of the other posts. I took the R9S apart four or five times today and have worked out a system, albeit with tools required. I did not have a bamboo chopstick and substituted a stubby screwdriver which has approximately the same taper as the advertised tool. It works fine and allows me to push out the pin with hand pressure. I am using a set of visegrips to hold the guide rod so I can insert it back in. Can do it all, but it seems strange to have the only gun which requires me to tote tools along.
My latest issue involves sometimes not releasing the trigger sufficiently to get it to reset causing a failure to fire and requiring another pull. Fired another 100 rounds today and had my first FTFs. Possibly I had too much grease in the pistol since when I bought it it was bone dry and fed 100 rounds with no failures of any kind. Cleaned it again and reduced the lube and will try it again tomorrow.
I tried to remove the right side panel grip screws and one of them stripped. Must be stainless and not hardened. Will send for some new ones and get a spring while I am at it. Reasonably priced. Right now my Kahr PM40 is more reliable. Hope I can solve the issues and gain confidence.
rtohio
-
What type of allen wrench are you using? Mine were loctited in too hard, and I twisted a wrench permentently removing the screws, but not a bit of stripping.
-
I had one of those folding allen wrench deals in my gin cleaning kit and used it. It has a handle that gives a lot of leverage but it did not seem to me that I applied too much pressure. The left side panel top is a little buggerred up and it has never been touched (the gun was new in a box) unless the dealer tried to remove it. At the price they charge, I will replace the whole set. Do you lock-tite the right panel screws? Which color lock-tite if you do?
RTOhio
-
RTOhio,
I'm fairly certain that folks use blue Loctite. That has been my choice.
Bill
-
I posted it here somewhere -- Rohrbaugh uses a commercial line of loctite -- 2244? It's a low strength loctite -- much weaker than the blue -- buy some good allen wrenches -- my craftsmen pro's weren't more than a few bucks, and you won't be able to strip the head if you use good ones -- I really did put a pemenant 180 degree twist in the wrench getting mine off -- but it still works fine.
-
With much procrastination and trepidation, I engaged
the little tasmanian devil today--cleaned, lubed, and reassembled it.
No problem on the take-down with RJ'S tool. The cleaning
and lubrication was routine; used a combo of Super-lube,
Slide-glide, and Miltech oil. I squirted 1 drop of oil in a
small hole in the frame above the trigger instead of
removing the grip.
As others have experienced I had some difficulty in the
reassembly. I finally succumbed to the vice-grips with
duct tape but the leather sounds like a better idea. I
thought I had the guide rod seated but was having fits
seeing a clear hole to reinsert the pin when I heard a
snap and the pin virtually dropped in--so I guess I did
not have things seated as I thought. Next time I will
smooth the surfaces with 600 grit paper as suggested.
Glad the perceived ordeal is over; I had fired approx. 65-
70 rounds prior to cleaning.
-
Uno mas, por favor! On my last range session I fired about
20 rounds, switching mags somewhere in the middle. In
the mid point of one mag firing I experienced one failure to eject and a jam. This was my first failure of any kind and I attribute it to not paying attention to where my weak side thumb was at the time because I am usually conscious of this and lost it temporarily. Because of this I fired one more magazine without a problem. My pup is#747.
-
Way to go, tracker. It's great to have the first re-assembly completed. I needed three times to develop a little confidence.
Bill
-
Thanks, Bill; it will be awhile before I reach the third
take-down; as long as I consider it reliable it will only
be cycled a few magazines a month. I definitely think
it is reliable at this point.
-
tracker, you had me worried for a minute there. I hope the pup continues to run fine. Are you and yours doing good?
tom
-
Thanks, Tom; all is well and I hope yours is too.
-
Gentle Folk,
For what it is worth: I was wandering around the Sears tool department this weekend and I found a package of plastic jaw covers for the Craftsman RoboGrip pliers…similar to slip joint a.k.a. “water pumps” or Channel Lock pliers (but they lock at the proper opening size automatically). They seem to fit on my normal slip joint pliers just fine. $2.00 for a package of 10 covers.
I gave them a try tonight on the slip joint pliers. I was not able to install the guide rod with the pliers…the guide rod end cap would slip off of the plastic jaw cover too easily (didn’t lose it but almost, was blocked from flying across the shop by the tool chest). It might help if I had larger pliers, the jaws were not close to being parallel so the guide rod end cap slipped off quite easily. I think with larger pliers they would work just fine. Maybe my recoil spring needs to be changed because I was easily able to install the guide rod with my bare hands.
Hope this helps.
Craig T.
-
My solution
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/rhedley/Takedown-reassemblyTool022.jpg)
-
My temporary solution, until Mr. Hedley's device arrives.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/majorKAP/DSC02792.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/majorKAP/DSC02793.jpg)
-
Very good, more than one way to skin a Cat !
Note to those that have the earlier *Stop Stick*.
Drill a hole [ 5/32"] as near the end of your plain *Stop Stick* as you can without breaking out, and file out the end.. Not too hard..
-
RJ,
I would like to thank you for helping the current "Stop Stick" owners modify the tool to use for re-assembly.
I plan to drill the 5/32" hole and give it a try.
Thanks again,
Bill
-
I was about to modify my stopstick when I found an old toothbrush in my gun maintenance box. It already had a hole in the handle so I just tweaked it a bit. Then I cut the brush part off - that was dumb. The brush is good for cleaning stuff. :P Luckily, I generate a few used toothbrushes per year. ;D
Steve
-
Sounds like a fine idea, Steve.
I've got plenty of toothbrushes. They should be much easier to drill.
Thanks,
Bill
-
Dave, forget the pliers.... The New *Two in one* Tool I offer works like a Champ.
http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Classifieds;action=display;num=1143659666
-
After reading all these posts i was a little worried about breaking down my new R-9 for cleaning. Well the job was no ordeal cleaned it no problem.reassembled it using only my hands no tools didn't seem to be any problems this time anyway. Thanks for all the good info here made my job easier ;D
-
My temporary solution, until Mr. Hedley's device arrives.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/majorKAP/DSC02792.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j181/majorKAP/DSC02793.jpg)
MajorKAP
Thanks for the hint ... worked great today; Mr. H's looks neat as well!
-
Anyone having trouble re assembling their gun...check out my post re. easy to make tools from Oct 3 2009...makes life easy!!! Tom Galligher
-
;D just picked up new pup sat. and thanks so much on tool, i'll be using tooth brush method one in slide, puch is allien wrench that fits grip screws, but my problem is when i put the slide back to the frame it stops at the ejector and not all the way back to meet flush with hammer, so when i pull back the slide to set barrel pin in , i have to move the slide back a greater distance and the recoil assembly moves away from the barrell lug area and stops on the ?? ( i don't know) while the guide protrudes being stopped this way i can put in barrel pin and then rack the slide seems to work is this normal, am i hurting the puppy ?
-
It is somewhat difficult to picture this problem but reassembly success is usually related to proper alignment of the recoil assembly, both horizontally and vertically, and pushing in the pin all the way. Those are the main two problem areas once you have inserted the assembly and the guide rod seats properly.
-
i guess the bottom line is right now , the pup is, racking just fine and spitting out snap caps. Took the pup apart to give it a bath before we went to the range. Think I'll do it again before we go out! thanks
-
Sounds good and welcome to the forum. As the guide rod smooths out from use it will seat much easier into the hole.
-
;D just picked up new pup sat. and thanks so much on tool, i'll be using tooth brush method one in slide, puch is allien wrench that fits grip screws, but my problem is when i put the slide back to the frame it stops at the ejector and not all the way back to meet flush with hammer, so when i pull back the slide to set barrel pin in , i have to move the slide back a greater distance and the recoil assembly moves away from the barrell lug area and stops on the ?? ( i don't know) while the guide protrudes being stopped this way i can put in barrel pin and then rack the slide seems to work is this normal, am i hurting the puppy ?
ss1. Good to hear you now have your R9. Sounds like you are doing everything in the right way. Here's a video that may help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrAdj-WEBig
-
It does get easier with time.
Johns tool defanitly helps! :D
-
Practice makes perfect, for sure. Well, maybe not perfect. :)
-
I would be apprehensive about using a clamp myself.
I have not tried it, but it looks like the spring is getting ready to shoot across the room. :o
-
I definitely won't be using a clamp; so far, don't need anything except a straw from a WD-40 can.
-
The clamp looks very cumbersome, I think the tool RJ designed is perfect.
This looks better than the Irwin. ;D
(http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp216/yankee2500/IMG_0143.jpg)
-
I second that! :D
-
Good looking tool, for sure. :)
-
In five years of owning my R9, I've never used the tool yet.
Never felt the need, or had an issue.
I finally broke down and bought one for me about a year ago when I ordered one for a freind.
I have no Idea where I put it in that abyss of cave of mine. ;D
-
It's time to order another one to have on hand.
-
Yep. Never know when one might need one. :)
-
Like I said, I never needed one, or ran into any problem with take down or reassembly -- but I'm sure it will be one of those deals where once I use one, I'll say " how did I ever do this without it ? " :D
-
Exactly. As I noted above, I don't use one either, but good to have. :)
-
You have to love that mentality. I do it all the time.
We all get stuck in out ways.
Sometimes you don't know how hard things are until you find an easier way of doing it.
-
I was told by a tire changer one time, when I said to him: you make that look so easy; he said: when you have to do something that is hard and you do it all the time, you find an easier way to do it. Basically what you said.
-
You never know where advice will come from, young and old.
The older I get them more I started listening and the more I started learning.
I read a bumpersticker one time that read:
hire my teenager he knows everything.
-
How true; and that advice sticks with you; amazing!
-
You never know where advice will come from, young and old.
The older I get them more I started listening and the more I started learning.
I read a bumpersticker one time that read:
hire my teenager he knows everything.
That's interesteing, when I was a teenager I thought my Dad was the dumbest guy in the world. Then, in my late twenties he sure seemed to be one of the smartest guys in the world, and just getting smarter as the years rolled by.
-
That's amazing. I always knew my Dad had wisdom far beyond me and his Dad did too; knew that from very early school years; means a lot.
-
I applaud you for your good ears and listening skills.
-
What did you say?
-
Your ears sound like mine.
-
No applause needed. :)
-
Too many years of loud music and hammering metal with no ear protection.
I have learned my lession now.
-
Sometimes, lessons learned, should have been learned earlier! ;)
-
Even when I went to rock concerts I put cotton in my ears because it was so painful.
Little did I know back then that was as good as screen wire.
-
Well, i always wear ear and eye protection now. I was tired of getting hit in the back of my head from my Father when i was not wearing protection.
It finally sunk in! :D
-
Well, at least you learned; and that's a good thing!
-
Yes.
Sometimes it takes a while.
My father learned the hard way. From hammering on metal for years, he has a constant ringing in his ears.
I guess thats why he gave me a slap when i was not wearing ear protection.
-
Yep! He knew! You do have to pay attention!
-
I wear plugs for everything.
Even when testing guns with just primers.
I am amazed at shooters I know that will not use protection and say " it's just a .22 or just a .38".
I try to edgamakate them about how hearing won't come back, but fools don't listen.
-
Yep! its a one time thing! Try to preserve it as long as possible.
-
Especially when you don't have much to preserve -
Like me.
-
I wear the ear plugs for everything, too. So far all is well. Now don't ask my wife as she says I have selective hearing; that may be true. :)
-
Don't we all have selevtive hearing.
Wait what did you say?
-
My wife uses the selective hearing line too, I believe women taught to say that from birth. ;D
With 40 + years of working construction and a couple of years on the 105mm Howitzers there is some serious loss here. :(
-
The selective hearing thing is also an issue when I'm on the computer; don't hear a thing! :D
-
The wives hear everything, they just say they don't. ;D
-
Mine lets me know when she thinks I don't hear her; I still try and make her think I don't. ;D
-
I have no opinion. ::)
-
It's best to do that!
-
Yes, I do agree with you. :)
-
Now, I knew you would. :)
-
I am glad we concur.
-
We usually do!