Re-assembly is difficult

[rtohio]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have watched the videos and read many of the other posts. I took the R9S apart four or five times today and have worked out a system, albeit with tools required. I did not have a bamboo chopstick and substituted a stubby screwdriver which has approximately the same taper as the advertised tool. It works fine and allows me to push out the pin with hand pressure. I am using a set of visegrips to hold the guide rod so I can insert it back in. Can do it all, but it seems strange to have the only gun which requires me to tote tools along.
My latest issue involves sometimes not releasing the trigger sufficiently to get it to reset causing a failure to fire and requiring another pull. Fired another 100 rounds today and had my first FTFs. Possibly I had too much grease in the pistol since when I bought it it was bone dry and fed 100 rounds with no failures of any kind. Cleaned it again and reduced the lube and will try it again tomorrow.
I tried to remove the right side panel grip screws and one of them stripped. Must be stainless and not hardened. Will send for some new ones and get a spring while I am at it. Reasonably priced. Right now my Kahr PM40 is more reliable. Hope I can solve the issues and gain confidence.

rtohio

[Aglifter]

What type of allen wrench are you using?  Mine were loctited in too hard, and I twisted a wrench permentently removing the screws, but not a bit of stripping.

[rtohio]

I had one of those folding allen wrench deals in my gin cleaning kit and used it. It has a handle that gives a lot of leverage but it did not seem to me that I applied too much pressure. The left side panel top is a little buggerred up and it has never been touched (the gun was new in a box) unless the dealer tried to remove it. At the price they charge, I will replace the whole set. Do you lock-tite the right panel screws? Which color lock-tite if you do?

RTOhio

[Michigunner]

RTOhio,

I'm fairly certain that folks use blue Loctite.  That has been my choice.

Bill

[Aglifter]

I posted it here somewhere -- Rohrbaugh uses a commercial line of loctite -- 2244?  It's a low strength loctite -- much weaker than the blue -- buy some good allen wrenches -- my craftsmen pro's weren't more than a few bucks, and you won't be able to strip the head if you use good ones -- I really did put a pemenant 180 degree twist in the wrench getting mine off  -- but it still works fine.

[tracker]

With much procrastination and trepidation, I engaged
the little tasmanian devil today--cleaned, lubed, and reassembled it.
No problem on the take-down with RJ'S tool. The cleaning
and lubrication was routine; used a combo of Super-lube,
Slide-glide, and Miltech oil. I squirted 1 drop of oil in a
small hole in the frame above the trigger instead of
removing the grip.
As others have experienced I had some difficulty in the
reassembly. I finally succumbed to the vice-grips with
duct tape but the leather sounds like a better idea. I
thought I had the guide rod seated but was having fits
seeing a clear hole to reinsert the pin when I heard a
snap and the pin virtually dropped in--so I guess I did
not have things seated as I thought. Next time I will
smooth the surfaces with 600 grit paper as suggested.
Glad the perceived ordeal is over; I had fired approx. 65-
70 rounds prior to cleaning.    

[tracker]

Uno mas, por favor! On my last range session I fired about
20 rounds, switching mags somewhere in the middle. In
the mid point of one mag firing I experienced one failure to eject and a jam. This was my first failure of any kind and I attribute it to not paying attention to where my weak side thumb was at the time because I am usually conscious of this and lost it temporarily. Because of this I fired one more magazine without a problem. My pup is#747.            


  

[Michigunner]

Way to go, tracker.  It's great to have the first re-assembly completed.  I needed three times to develop a little confidence.

Bill

[tracker]

Thanks, Bill; it will be awhile before I reach the third
take-down; as long as I consider it reliable it will only
be cycled a few magazines a month. I definitely think
it is reliable at this point.

[theirishguard]

tracker, you had me worried for a minute there. I hope the pup continues to run fine. Are you and yours doing good?
tom

[tracker]

Thanks, Tom; all is well and I hope yours is too.

[Craigt]

Gentle Folk,

For what it is worth:  I was wandering around the Sears tool department this weekend and I found a package of plastic jaw covers for the Craftsman RoboGrip pliers…similar to slip joint a.k.a. “water pumps” or Channel Lock pliers (but they lock at the proper opening size automatically).  They seem to fit on my normal slip joint pliers just fine.  $2.00 for a package of 10 covers.  

I gave them a try tonight on the slip joint pliers.  I was not able to install the guide rod with the pliers…the guide rod end cap would slip off of the plastic jaw cover too easily (didn’t lose it but almost, was blocked from flying across the shop by the tool chest).  It might help if I had larger pliers, the jaws were not close to being parallel so the guide rod end cap slipped off quite easily.  I think with larger pliers they would work just fine.  Maybe my recoil spring needs to be changed because I was easily able to install the guide rod with my bare hands.

Hope this helps.

Craig T.

[RJ HEDLEY]

My solution


  

[majorKAP]

My temporary solution, until Mr. Hedley's device arrives.

[RJ HEDLEY]

Very good, more than one way to skin a Cat !


Note to those that have the earlier *Stop Stick*.  

Drill a hole [ 5/32"] as near the end of your plain *Stop Stick* as you can without breaking out, and file out the end..  Not too hard..