Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories > Cleaning and Maintenance of the R-9

Trigger Bar Spring

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tracker:

Glad it worked for you; if you have a problem with your R9 chances are one of us here have had a similar one. Best of luck on your arm repair and recovery.

MICHPATRIOT:
You may want to Get ECR to chime in on this, I think that replacing this spring with a new one may possibly be more in depth than just a simple swap. I seem to recall a special grip that the factory had with a window in it, The triggerbar spring was TUNED by adjusting tension to achieve proper trigger reset. The grip with the window may have been for observing the action during adjustments. Id stick with the original until you ask ECR or have a problem with it that needs addressing.

I could be all wet though?

tracker:
Not to preempt Eric's response but I read that the OP only ordered a new spring to compare it with his original. He was concerned with a slight bend in the spring. The slight bend is completely normal as shown in the R9 manual and nothing to worry about or replace.

ECR:
Hello there Mr. BytorJr. . . . . . The trigger springs were always going through a semi-constant "tweak" to get the trigger sear bar in just the right position. I played with those for a few years and they were a pain. lol. . . . but, in the end, I finally got the exact shape we needed to get them in just the right position for the sear to positively engage on the hammer cam and push upward. Not an easy spring design as you can see once you remove the right hand grip panel. There are many turns and twists on it.  Once I finally found just the right angles I needed, I sent my "tweaked spring" off to Walt Wolff so he could make the changes at his end so I did not have to hand bend each spring for each R9 pistol we assembled. They were tedious to do, but, after a while, I knew exactly how much pressure to use to bend the material and have it remain in the perfect position after it was released and in a "neutral" position. You can say that for the most part every R9 trigger sear bar spring was hand bent into position for that particular gun. Our second assembler and an apprentice under me, Donato Fucci Jr., was wonderful to work with and he grasped the correct feel and look of a good trigger spring immediately. I miss working with him. Yes, these pistols were truly one of a kind and each one had to be hand-fit in many areas. It is impossible for me to try and explain "the feel and look " it had to have to work properly. . . . but I would simply put a new spring in my hand, lay it on the frame with the sear bar in place and form the spring to that gun. Nuts I tell you, but after a while, when Walter nailed the new production springs to the design of the one I did by hand, that part of the assembly procedure became much easier and faster to do. Finally, as a few others have pointed out. . . . take two small needle nose pliers and slightly open the two round areas on the spring to fit over the two pins on the frame. If need be, take a small punch and tap the top of the aluminum frame post to widen it once the spring is on it in place. This helps to keep it on the pin. A trick we used at the factory for those that had worn pins that would come back for warranty work. We were working on a better seating pin system for that spring when we sold the company to Remington.

Brenden:
I've got my grips off and attempted to put the spring on. Now I have done so before with no problem. Well obviously I've been lucky previously as i still look for the dang spring once in awhile!!
I ordering a couple new ones and have a big plastic bag ready for a possible escape again!!
 
So tweaking the spring won't affect the trigger pull at all? I have been here a long time and I either missed that trick or forgot it! I do tend to forget more and more these days though....
Thanks and it's always good to know that someone else shares or shared ones own misery! And even better to have the problem fixed.
All the best.
B

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