The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Rohrbaugh R9 (all variations) => Topic started by: PsychoSword on May 13, 2007, 11:49:49 PM
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Is that lock-tite? I read the white locktite is for plastic pipe fittings. It was very hard to get the top grip screw off and either my little hex tool or the screw is buggered on the bottom, so I ordered the tool recommended in the other section of the forum, we'll see if I can get the bottom one off..
Anyone know if they make slotted screws for the Rohrbaugh? I hate, hate, hate HATE hex screws.
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Psychosword ,take it easy guy,"Do not get screwed by the screws" .There is an old post over a year ago that another fellow member changed the screws on his Rohrbaugh handgun,.here is the info relating to that very post ----1/4 inch..long screws with 3-48 threads,using stainless Philips flat-heads screws. Good luck! :)
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Psychosword ,take it easy guy,"Do not get screwed by the screws" .There is an old post over a year ago that another fellow member changed the screws on his Rohrbaugh handgun,.here is the info relating to that very post ----1/4 inch..long screws with 3-48 threads,using stainless Philips flat-heads screws. Good luck! :)
Thanks buddy!! I will do some searching for slotted grip screws and see what I come up with. Meanwhile I'll await the tool. I should have ordered two of them, was only $2, but shipping was $7. :)
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PS:
Back in 2004 when I was just getting to know my R9 (No. 132), I stripped one of its grip screws using an inferior hex key which I happened to have in my tool box. After pondering the situation for a few hours, I steadied my nerves and managed to remove the screw using a small damaged-screw remover inserted in a power drill set on slow reverse. It's not a job for the faint of heart -- in fact, it may have been a reckless act on my part. Anyway, luck favored me that day. The screw came out with no damage being inflicted on the CF grip panel or the frame. Since then, I've acquired the finest hex key I could find and keep a supply of spare grip screws in the safe . . . just in case.
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I had one screw on each side of my pistol so tight that there was no way to get them off. I rounded off the hex slot in each of the screws so now I was pretty much screwed. A couple of weeks ago I finally got up the nerve to use a dremmel cut off wheel and cut in a regular slot across the head of the screw. I just barely hit the carbon fiber grips because the wheel is round and you can't really cut the slot deep enough without hitting the grips. end result I was able to now use a regular screwdriver to get the screws out. before I attempted this job I purchased some new screws and the proper drill and tap in case I broke the head of the screw off. I now coat the screws with grease before putting them back in and check for them getting loose after each range session.
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I had one screw on each side of my pistol so tight that there was no way to get them off. I rounded off the hex slot in each of the screws so now I was pretty much screwed. A couple of weeks ago I finally got up the nerve to use a dremmel cut off wheel and cut in a regular slot across the head of the screw. I just barely hit the carbon fiber grips because the wheel is round and you can't really cut the slot deep enough without hitting the grips. end result I was able to now use a regular screwdriver to get the screws out. before I attempted this job I purchased some new screws and the proper drill and tap in case I broke the head of the screw off. I now coat the screws with grease before putting them back in and check for them getting loose after each range session.
Couldn't you have used a small easy out? They have worked wonders for me over the years.
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Benchmade's pocket tool works great for me. It has a perfect hex head in it for the screws on the R9 and it works good on my pocket knives too.
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To me the white stuff looked liked corrosion of the aluminum. You know how aluminum gets that white powder if it is left out in the elements. You have 2 different kinds of metal the stainless screws and the aluminum frame. I do not think it was any kind of locktite, although someone might know more about it than I do, I have just never have seen white locktite. I live here in florida and I work around saltwater and my pistol pretty mush stays in my glove compartment so I thought maybe it might be the elements. if the factory is putting some kind of material to keep the screws from loosening I would like to know because it sure can cause some problems. If you break off that screw head you are in trouble, you better know what you are doing or your gun is going back to the factory. You also have to be able to take off that right grip to periodically check and lube those components. If I had to do it again I think I might try running the cut off wheel over a file to decrease the dia., and then you might not hit your grips.
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Well I received the tool today. Just tried to take the bottom screw off and it still will not come off. The hex is stripped. Now what?
Did I mention I hate these types of screws?
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I tried the top one on the left side. I can't even get it to budge. Wow! ???
I may end up having to do some fine dremel work, but I don't want to take a chance of damaging the grips!
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This is why all I do is make sure that the grips are tight periodically,and I leave alone otherwise..
I have taken one set off to see what was in there ;D and to know that I could do so..
IMO,if the grips are tight-leave them be..
BTW-a different head design would be more user friendly for sure!!
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You know, I only wanted to take the grip off to check out the trigger bar to make sure it was on good. But I could see in the tiny space between the grip and the slide that it appears to be flush. If I had seen that earlier, I never would have messed with the grip screws to begin with.
But you should be able to change the grips!
And there's nothing wrong with getting under there every once in awhile to clean things a little and make sure everything is as it should be.
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PS:
It may be time to consider one of these.
http://www.become.com/shop?q=damaged+screw+remover&utm_campaign=become&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_term=damaged+screw+remover
I used one of the small Alden "Grabit" bits to remove the damaged screw on my R9. If you decide to try it youself, you might want to to place the R9 on a padded surface and have someone hold it firmly in place while you handle the power drill set on slow reverse. If you don't want to do it youself, I'd send the pistol back to the factory for removal and replacement of the screws. It should be a quick turnaround.
Good luck.
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As far as what the white stuff is, Rooster is right on.
It is corrosion caused by electrolysis. It happens when there are two different metals in the presence of water. A mild electrical current is produced and the softest/weakest metal will start to corrode.
That is the aluminum frame actually mildly coroding. The "water'" is just probably from the air.
If any of you go boating at the lake or ocean you will notice the small aluminum tabs on the skegs of the motors. Sometimes they have white stuff, or even really bad corrosion. Those are made that way on purpose so a replaceable part that cost a few dollars get trashed instead of a whole lower housing that costs hundreds or more. Those tabs are a softer/weaker metal than any of the metal on the lower unit so theywill go first.
Reinz
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Here's what worked for me. I too rounded out the hex in the screw and couldn't get one out.
Get some good industrial epoxy and put a little on your hex head wrench, insert into the screw head. Let it set up over night and it will come right out. I know if I tried my dremel tool I would be ordering a new set of grips.
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Here's what worked for me. I too rounded out the hex in the screw and couldn't get one out.
Get some good industrial epoxy and put a little on your hex head wrench, insert into the screw head. Let it set up over night and it will come right out. I know if I tried my dremel tool I would be ordering a new set of grips.
Interesting idea, thank you. Do you remember what brand of epoxy you used? The screws are in their so hard, I'm afraid my new little wrench might break. I should have ordered two at the same time.
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Brenden is right, if it don't fiddle don't flip with it. I asked
Maria about removing the right grip panel; she checked with
Karl and he said, "why is he doing that?" There is no reason
to remove the grip panels unless you just have an over
whelming desire to screw things up.[pun intended]
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Interesting idea, thank you. Do you remember what brand of epoxy you used? The screws are in their so hard, I'm afraid my new little wrench might break. I should have ordered two at the same time.
I use Locktight Fixmaster Epoxy. You can get it at Grainger or any industrial supplier. The stuff works so good after it sets up I have used it to fill in cracks or holes in metal and file it down. If you use it though make sure you let it set up for 24 hours and it works great.
Probably the best thing said by tracker is don't fiddle with it. Unfortunately I had a little malfunction with the trigger assy and need to check to springs. Once I tried only 1 screw froze up.
I really love my Glocks but since I have had this little pup my Glocks have taken a back seat in this hot spell were having.
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Psychosword ,take it easy guy,"Do not get screwed by the screws" .There is an old post over a year ago that another fellow member changed the screws on his Rohrbaugh handgun,.here is the info relating to that very post ----1/4 inch..long screws with 3-48 threads,using stainless Philips flat-heads screws. Good luck! :)
Been searching for that thread, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who made the post and where he ordered the replacements from? Did he get them from Rohrbaugh?
The white stuff being corroded aluminum sounds correct to me. I remember one time changing the grip on an Inox Beretta 92FS and encountered basically the same thing.
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PS:
This thread contains at the bottom a detailed drawing with measurements of the grip screws which Chris provided:
http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Gunsmith;action=display;num=1115654835;start=7#7
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PS:
This thread contains at the bottom a detailed drawing with measurements of the grip screws which Chris provided:
http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/YaBB.cgi?board=Gunsmith;action=display;num=1115654835;start=7#7
Thanks buddy!! I'll have to make it to the hardware store sometime soon.
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Yikes... I found another wrench in the back of the closet and I tried to remove the bottom left screw and the end of my Craftsman mini wrench broke off. What a ridiculous grip screw design if I ever saw one.. Luckily, part of it was sticking out and I was able to pull it out carefully. Almost scratched the grips, but all is well. I have always hated these types of screws for gun grips and here is one of the reasons why..
I think R5XX will be heading back to the factory since I also have a minor issue with trigger take-up, though I'm really not looking forward to the $50+ overnight shipping bill.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/brooceleroy/Rohrbaugh.jpg)
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What is the factory's method of removing the screws?
That's where I'm sending it to have it done, these screws are redicules to remove.
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Not that I am for the allen head design, but anytime you get corrosion involved you've got trouble no matter which way you look at it.
Reinz
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I support Reinz's explanation. Unless the Manufacturer is intentionally applying some type of compound, the white substance sounds like aluminum corrosion byproduct. The mechanism is galvanic corrosion, and yes, the electrolyte can be formed from moisture condensed out of the air. In this context, the aluminum frame material is anodic to the steel/stainless-steel screw material. The thing about corrosion byproduct is that it is less dense than the metal and hence occupies a larger volume. This explains the seizing and lock-up of the screw. The Manufacturer should make some effort to coat the thread and/or prevent air from getting to the threads interface: lithium grease comes to mind, applied to the threads with a toothpik. I would predict that grip screws that are not removed over a period of many years (owners just leave the OEM grips undisturbed) will likely become frozen and unremovable, and how quickly this happens should depend on the environment: faster in Florida than Pheonix.
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I tried to remove the screws Sunday, but couldn't budge one of them with the short end of a good - very good in fact - wrench. Anybody need a set or two of screws? :)
I'm guessing the grips on mine haven't been off in years, if ever - early 6xx SN. Maybe I'll put a half a drop of Kroil on each one and see if it'll break them loose. Maybe I won't - if it ain't broke, etc.
I did change the recoil spring and it was much simpler than I expected. I almost got it back in without using channelocks.
I still haven't changed the mag springs because I want to compare/shoot the two old mags against the two new ones with the new recoil spring in the gun.
John
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I checked my recoil spring after 50 rds. It was a coil shorter than a new one. I've read post where people wait till there 2 coils shorter before they change them. To each there own. $5 a pop per spring is it worth your life?
Those are certainly words by which to live! 8)
I have adopted the practice with my R9 of changing recoil springs after 100 rounds and have a number of replacement springs stored in the gun safe. In a previous post, I recalled some former experience I had with raising thoroughbred horses and likened the R9 to a thoroughbred. They both require careful attention, but they're hard to beat when kept "ready to race."
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As I recall,the recommendations were to make sure that the grip screws were snug,and did not loosen up..
Not to take the screws out ;)
I agree that you should be able to take them out easier,and not bugger them up,that is why the pup that I carry get's the snug test,and have never been off!! ;D
No problems as yet..
BTW-I have missed a bunch of new people on the forum-Welcome,and enjoy your pups!! 8)
Brenden
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I just shot mine today. I was cleaning it and decided to take the grips off. Screws came out fine! So did the spring and bar for the trigger. Had me stumped for a minute, but got it back together. The oil on the screws is working fine for me. No white stuff on the screws and they came out easy.
WS6,
Are you having a problem with your trigger system?Is this why you want to check it out?
There have been a few problems with the screws backing out,causing a problem with the trigger mechanism..
I understand that a very slight lube in there is a good thing,but it comes that way from the R-Bros..
There has been discussion on the board before about using loctite to make sure they didn't loosen up!!
Untill I have any trigger related problems,I am not going to worry about it.. ;)
Brenden
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"I have adopted the practice with my R9 of changing recoil springs after 100 rounds"
I was told the new ones I just bought were good for 250 rounds.
FWIW, the one I took out of the gun was about 2 coils shorter than the original replacement in the box and the 5 new ones I bought. The previous owner reportedly shot 200 rounds and I shot 101.
John
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Brendon, Everytime you shoot your weapon the screws work themselves loose. I was just snugging them down after each cleaning and they were loose. I decided to take them off once before and there wasn't any problems. This time I took them off and I heard ting as soon as I started unscrewing the top screw. It was dirty inside the housing believe it or not. I cleaned it up and put it together and it works fine. I will probably pull them off with each cleaning. The spring assembly is easy to reinstall. You just need to be patient when screwing the screws.
This was the original "problem"-was the screws coming loose upon shooting,and then guys having a problem with the trigger assembly,as the grip secures this..
I have taken the grips off of one of my other pups,just to see what the innards looked like,I was satisfied,and have not done so again..
I personally have never had a grip screw come loose,on any that I have shot-including my pocket carry Deer Parker!!
Of course I have not had a problem with anything else either,So I feel good about it..
I am still using the "old" recoil springs-and do not change as often as I "should" probably :o but have had no feeding problems..
I have multiple mags,all "old" springs,yet no feeding problems..
Paint me "lucky"??
IMO,if it is working,I am not messin with it..
I shot what I thought was enough to break the pup in,shoot a couple of mags every once in awhile,the 115 GDHPs seem to hit the center of what I am aiming at,I am happy.. ;D
It's whatever makes someone comfortable with what they carry IMO..
I am at the shoot a little,carry a lot stage with the Pup..
I am at the same stage with my Seecamp .380 at this point..
Have fun with the pup,make her bark on America's Birthday!! 8)
Brenden
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Brenden - I'm with ya, if it ain't broke, leave it alone.
Carry on,
Reinz
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Well, mine came w. loctite on the screws -- I ordered the proper grade of loctite from an industrial supplier -- I think it was 2240 -- the Bros. R will tell you. Or, it's on here somewhere.
Once I got them off the initial time -- the grade of loctite that was on them was not the same as the grade they called for -- and replaced them w. the proper spec'd loctite, they haven't come loose, but are easy to remove.
With that said, I used the best Craftsman allen wrench I could buy, and put a permanent twist in it, removing them the first time, but I didn't strip anything.
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Geez...a thousand dollar gun with a tendency toward corrosion?? Can't they correct that?
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Now lets not jump out there with that problem. Tom
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I've been carrying my R9 for three years and four months. (It's in my pocket as I write this post.) I've seen no corrosion of any kind on it. Of course, it has received a lot of TLC -- but then all of my guns receive a lot of TLC. I guess I'm just one of those strange people who consider cleaning guns to be a form of recreation. :D
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I was on my way to work today but the voices in my head said Go Home and Clean the Guns!! I don't see any sign of corrosion on my R-9. Dan
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Dan:
Yep, I'm always hearing those same voices. ;)