The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Rohrbaugh R9 (all variations) => Topic started by: bubbacloud on March 03, 2010, 06:34:27 PM
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hi everyone. Thanks for the help getting me hooked up for some mag extenders! I can hardly wait to get them.
I have a couple more questions for you Rohr-xperts:
1 - I am having problems with the beveled edge of the grip rubbing a hole in my thumb when firing. (the "webbed area between my thumb and first finger). If I loosen up my grip a little to save my skin, the gun jams (limp-wristing) if I hold it tightly, I bleed. Are their any other grips out there or sleeves I can put on that don't mess up the "in the pocket" useablility of the gun?
2 - Do we REALLY have to change the spring every 200 rounds? This seems too quick to me...
3 - i have cases of +p ammo that I bought for another gun. Can I do anything to beef the R9 up to a point where it is acceptable to shoot it with +P?
4 - There are some good looking holsters pictured on the website, but the STORE doesn't work - how do I learn more / order them?
Thanks in advance for all you help -
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Bubbacloud, hopefully I can answer some of your questions. 1. Short ans. I don't know, I've never heard of anyone with this problem. I've shot my R9s with both the original grips and the Hogue Extreme grips that I installed, haven't had any problem like you have had. 2.Yes. 3. No! best forget about modifying your R9, It would void your warranty, which I'm sure you would need. I doubt that with a barrel this short that you would gain much, if anything with +p ammo. 4. Call Maria, she can order anything tou want. Also, I would ask her about problem #1. Hope this helps. Gene
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1. You can get the Hogue Extreme grips by calling Maria at the Rohrbaugh phone number. Grips are $69.95. Should help.
2. That's what the factory suggests, so that's what I would do.
3. Don't use +P ammo. Gun not designed to use.
4. If you see a holster you like on the Web site, call Maria, she will take care of your order.
bubbacloud. Enjoy your R9.
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bubba,
for problem number 1, get a job for the summer doing construction work or landscaping, pens and computer keys do not toughen the skin ;D
On the serious side, try some different grips Hogue or the CF grips that curt has for sale in the classified section.
If you run the same spring too long you will risk failure and damage to the gun.
+P is not to be fired in the R9 and will void your warranty, pound your gun and provide little noticeable difference in stopping power from a R9 barrel. And if your bleeding firing standard pressure ammo, I would think +P would be the last thing you would need.
Maria is the one to call about purchasing items from the store, as others have stated.
And last, your extensions are on the way, thanks for the order.
John
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:P i know that the computer keys don't help toughen my skin, but the cattle feed, horse feed, and hauling wood for the iron stove do a pretty good job! :D
I have REALLY big hands and the gun just happens to run into the knuckle of my thumb - had the same problem with a KAHR so I dumped it. Not gonna dump this one- I love it.
I understand not to shoot the +P stuff - wish I didn't have so much sitting around.
On a related note - where can I get ballistics info that accounts for the short barrels. I wonder how much difference (less) the typical 9 mm stuff has out of these tiny guns - any ideas where to look for data with 2" barrels?
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bubbacloud. This may help a little:
http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/9mmluger.html
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how do I post a pic in this thing? make it simple for me - i run a few collective funds, but blogging, i haven't figured out :)
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bubba,
get a photo bucket account (free) and load your pics there, then just copy and paste the image code in your post and the pics will be there.
John
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John - thanks for the pic advice!
Here are two pics that show where my hand is being sacrificed. Which after-rmarket grip is most likely to help?
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee310/randycloud/wimpyhands1.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee310/randycloud/wimpyhands2.jpg
<a href="http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee310/randycloud/?action=view¤t=wimpyhands1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee310/randycloud/wimpyhands1.jpg" border="0" alt="Wimpy hands 1"></a>
<a href="http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee310/randycloud/?action=view¤t=wimpyhands2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee310/randycloud/wimpyhands2.jpg" border="0" alt="wimpy hands 2"></a>
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bubba,
That looks painful, I had some smart a$$ remarks but will abstain. ;D
Maybe a little 1000 grit sandpaper or a buffing wheel workover of the edge of the grips. Are they sharp or rough in that area ?
John
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It appears to me that your hands are so large that your thumb joint is being damaged by the slide movement during the firing cycle. Could that be the case?
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it isn't the slide, it is the beveled part of the grip that protrudes back toward me. It is just the slightest bit rough and seems to grab my skin and stretch it until it rubs / tears. It is no big deal during a self defense situation, i had lots worse when I worked the door at a biker bar 30 years ago :) I just wish I could practice without tearing my hand up.
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bubbacloud. John makes a good point. Sand the rough area lightly with the mentioned grit sand paper, make sure, it's smooth. Try it again.
Don't want to make this sound too simple as you may have thought of this, however, if not, give it a try.
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bubbacloud:
I can't add much of value to the posts above other than to welcome you to the Forum, congratulate you on the selection of the Rohrbaugh, and suggest that you might use a quality shooting glove for range work with your R9. (If, God forbid, you ever have to use the pistol in a life-threatening situation, you won't be noticing any abrasion to the thumb until well after the event.)
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Bubbacloud, I forgot to welcome you to the forum. We do try our best to help each other. I believe it's the best gun forum on the internet. Post often. Gene
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bubbacloud, welcome to the forum, I'm sorry that the pup is biting you some. for some good holsters try the following
www.mecopocketholsters.com Robert will be happy to help. Tom
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Bubbacloud,
Let me add my welcome to you to the forum. Now, Reference your post and pictures . . . . OUCH!!!
After studying the pictures and seeing the size of your hands and the exact location of the "wound" my initial thought was exactly what Tracker posted above. That your thumb "rode-up" just enough, with out your being aware of it, and the slide just managed to graze that spot. Perhaps a few times.
However, if your certain that it's not the slide, I would suggest that when you go to range to use a bandaid to cover that vulerable spot BEFORE you shoot. That will give you some padding and protection right at that crutial spot without you're having to resort to a shooting glove. Congratulations on your new Pup. and again, welcome.
Regards, Quiet1
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I'd consider buffing down the edge of the grip panel on the left side. Mine is fairly smooth and hasn't caused any such problem for me. And I had one range session of 60+ rounds when I first got it.
Take the grip off before you buff it and welcome!
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I don't advise removing the grip. Could cause loose grip screws. Now that's just me.
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Lord, KJ, I've lost track of the number of times I've removed the grip screws on No. 132. But then, I'm one who has been known to change out its grips just because it's a rainy-day Monday. 8)
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Yes, Richard. I recall, at the drop of a hat. ;D
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Welcome Bubbacloud to the forum. I know this sounds simple, but how about a glove?
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Thanks for all the advice everybody. I took the gun back to my dealer today (I live in the sticks, so it is a rare thing to make the 90 mile drive each way), and they sanded the grip down a bit for me. I couldn't imagine it being much smoother than the factory, but it really made a big difference. I thik that once my hand heals, the sanding will solve the problem. If it doesn't, I will experiment with the sleeves and aftermarket grips -
Thanks again!
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After looking at your pics, and knowing the G-10 grips are machined, I figured sanding or polishing may help. I hope it takes care of the problem.
John
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Thanks for all the advice everybody. I took the gun back to my dealer today (I live in the sticks, so it is a rare thing to make the 90 mile drive each way), and they sanded the grip down a bit for me. I couldn't imagine it being much smoother than the factory, but it really made a big difference. I thik that once my hand heals, the sanding will solve the problem. If it doesn't, I will experiment with the sleeves and aftermarket grips -
Thanks again!
Excellent, bubbacloud. Sounds like a winner. Sure hope the sanding solves your problem.
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Welcome!
Don't sweat the ballistics issues of a 2" barrel. Just use the accepted stock ammo and it will work peachy.
Stick with 115 gr Gold Dots
http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/catalog1/product_info.php/pName/50rds-9mm-speer-le-gold-dot-115gr-hp-ammo/cName/9mm-hollow-point-ammo
50rds for $25
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yup - bought 2 cases of those yesterday
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That is a good price, for sure, and in boxes of 50!
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KJ, I've taken the grips off my R9 about 15 times. When I re-install them I don't clean the screws or add more thread lock.
I have not had a single problem with them coming loose while shooting or any other time. Perhaps I'm lucky!
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Kanuist. I've read on this Forum where so many have had problems by removing their grips, that I just don't do it. Karl Rohrbaugh recommmends not doing it as well.
That right grip can cause a lot of problems with the trigger spring if not reinstalled properly, as you well know, I'm sure. There are many folks here that do change their grips quite a bit. I'm just not one of them.
That being said, it's the decision of each one, if they want to do it, and maybe, they will be lucky, too.
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KJ makes some salient and valid points about the wisdom of removing grips but to each his or her own. Screw failure, due to galvanic corrosion, has occurred on the R9. It is not a bad idea to change out the screws periodically, depending on your storage and local humidity. As I can attest, having a screw head pop off your grip is a bit of a disconcerting experience.
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Now this is just me again; I wouldn't even change out the screws. Rohrbaugh, several years ago did have a screw probelm, and on RJ Hedley's (rest his soul) post had a call from Eric R. saying the screw problem had been fixed. They went to a stronger screw.
We just had a Forum member last week, was changing out some black screws, going back to the original silver screws and stripped out a black screw, which was after market screws, and had to send it back to the factory to get removed.
Again, to each his own. If you don't see a problem, I would leave it alone. Do, however, check for loose screws after each shooting. I don't want to cause myself a problem, and haven't had one since owning the R9, for, come March 13, a year; also, no loose screws. Others may differ, and that's OK.
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"Stronger screws" have very little to do with dissimilar metal or galvanic corrosion and if you have had your gun only a year you probably wouldn't have experienced it. Stainless screws against an aluminum frame can cause problems. Loose screws are a very minor issue and just take a quick check. I have never witnessed a loose screw.
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Tom. Here's where we have the right to "agree to disagree". I don't think it's been proven anywhere that the white powder you mentioned on another post is galvanic corrosion (Aluminum Oxide). I'm with Slater on this one, I think it's the factory thread locking compound, which is white.
Your pistol had the weak screws, in my opinion, and as Rohrbaugh agreed, did have a screw problem; then it was corrected. To say this is galvanic corrosion without a sample proving it to be the Aluminum Oxide, we still don't know.
Agree to disagree.
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Ok; keep your screws in there as long as you like.
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Tom. Thanks!
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The evidence of corrosion was on the top of the screw post after the head came off and had nothing to do with thread locking compound but thanks for your opinion on my problem.
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Still, Tom, if you didn't have a sample proving it to be Aluminum Oxide, you're guessing. Agree to disagree.
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I don't need a sample because it was obvious corrosion that caused the screw failure. If some one wanted this problem to just fade away they would say that they put more strength in the screws. These screws are still very tiny and subject to failure; a word to the wise.
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Tom. How can it be obvious that it was corrosion? It is obvious there was a screw problem at Rohrbaugh. To just say you know it was corrosion has to be proven, knowing it is the, one more time, Aluminum Oxide. We can disagree all you like. I'll be here.
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I saw it; you didn't. What is the reason for your denial of a possible corrosion issue?
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Tom. I'm disagreeing that it was corrosion, which I have a right to do. To me it is plain that it was the weak screws and you saw the powder from the thread compound which when the head came off, the powder covered the top of the screw post.
Now I don't know that, just like you don't know it's corrosion. You just think it is, and you have that right. It's only thinking for the both of us until it is proven. That's really what I'm saying.
I'm not saying there couldn't be a corrosion problem. Anything is possible. I'm saying you don't know there's that problem.
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This Technical Note No. 7 from Atlas Specialty Metals may be of some interest:
http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm
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Richard. Thanks for the info. Confirms my thinking.
An excerpt from the article:
The corrosion is concentrated by the area difference. Conversely, if the area of the anode is large compared to that of the cathode, this dilutes the corrosive efect, in most cases to the extent that no problem occurs. It is common practice to use stainless steel fastners to fix aluminum sheeting or signs, but if aluminum screws were used to fix stainless steel the screws may rapidly corrode.
Agree to disagree. It's OK with me. Friendly discussion. Anything is possible.
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Well noted. But compare:
[size=10]An apparent contradiction of the area effect on Galvanic Corrosion occurs when the component comprised of the two metals is only partly wetted. Consider for instance a stainless steel bolt in an aluminium plate; if water collects in the corner at the edge of the bolt but the remainder of the plate remains dry, the effective area of the less noble aluminium is only the wetted region, which may be only a similar size to that section of the bolt that is wetted .... thus it is quite possible for the aluminium plate to be galvanically attacked in the region immediately surrounding the bolt. Only the wet “area” counts.[/size]
E.g., a stainless steel screw with an inherent flaw inserted into an aluminum frame in a hot and humid environment -- such as a coastal city.
As noted, anything can happen.
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I think the key to this discussion is "anything is possible."
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Ok men, time for me to jump in here.
Experience: 35 years in the automotive industry, half of that time I was hands on, the other half, management and then ownership of franchises including: Mercedes Benz, BMW, Volvo, BMW motorcycles, Porsche, Land Rover and Jag, ect...many, many screws and bolts removed and installed in my lifetime.
Change the screws, for all the reasons mention. It is not hard, really. Even if you have to take them out one at a time, change them.
I take off my grips almost every time I go to the range. I change my screws from time to time as constant tightening can stress the threads. Cheep insureance.
Just my 2 cents.
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Dino. Everyone has their own way of doing things, and that's OK. I've owned guns since I was knee high to a grasshopper and never have changed out screws or had a problem. That being said, I don't begrudge anyone who wants to do it.
My R9 is nearly a year old, and still has no issues. I'll keep checking for loose screws after each range session. So for those who want to change screws, that's your business. I just don't recommend it unless there's a problem. Now that's just me, pure and simple.
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Understand kj.
However my best shop foreman has a favorite saying, "pay me now or pay me later".
The way he would explain this topic to a customer would be something like, "even though the factory does not reccomend changing the grip screws we reccomend changing them because if they fail it may cost you more down the road".
On the other hand I like working on my guns, taking off the grips, cleaning everything, and changing the little suckers. ;D
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Dino. I do understand. I like cleaning the guns, where cleaning needs to be done, just don't like doing something that could cause me a problem if I did it; like stripping out a screw just because I was changing grips or screws.
I can't see me changing screws on the Ed Brown, or for that matter any of the numerous guns that I own.
I still employ the saying " If it's not broke, don't fix it." Have a reliable gun smith who believes the same thing. I just buy guns from him.
Oh! and Dino. The "pay me now or pay me later" thing, you would have starved. Not one of mine has ever been to the gun smith for maintenance. (Except for once, when an ill fated 45 LC got stuck in my Ruger Alaskan's barrel due to a friend's reloaded ammo, when the round went Pffff. The friend was shooting it.) Gun smith didn't charge me a thing to remove the round.
Now, as I keep saying, over and over, to each his own. Keep changing the little suckers. ;D ;D I don't want to take away anyone's enjoyment. :) ;)
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That's what makes the world go round.
I think we covered the screw issue well.
By now Bubbacloud's hand is healed and he is enjoying shooting his new R9.