The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Rohrbaugh R9 (all variations) => Topic started by: docboss on November 20, 2012, 08:57:40 PM
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If someone is considering a pre-owned R-9, what are the things that should be considered? Naturally the dealer says the firearm is is great condition, but how do you really know? Thanks. Doc :-\
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The condition of the finish will tell you much about how the used R9 was treated by its former owner(s). Also scope out the interior of the barrel with a light. The dealer will probably not want to field strip the piece for you (indeed, he may not even know how to do so), but he might be willing to strip it down for you if he understands the procedure and considers you to be serious about a possible purchase.
Good luck in your search. The R9 is a masterpiece of form and function.
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Thanks Richard. My viewing of the R9 displayed absolutely no sign of use at all. The firearm had no wear marks, scratches, or "rubs". It has the original case with two spent cartridges and a spare spring. The salesman did comment that the magazine release was very strong but said the extracter looked perfect and the magazines showed no wear. I just do not want to purchase a firearm that has been abused or damaged. Obviously the owner sold it for a reason. Thanks again.
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DB:
From your description, it would appear that the R9 you describe has seen little if any range time. I would say go for it. And as for the reason the previous owner decided to sell the piece, don't give it a second thought. The reasons could run the gamut from an estate sale to an emergency need for funds.
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Spot on Richard. I've purchased a few firearms in my time at prices that seemed to good to be true. The R9 is not a cheap pistol and can bring a decent amount of money if the seller is in immediate need. Follow your gut, if the firearm is in great shape, you can't go wrong.
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Thanks for the input, BUT, if you are looking at a used R9, other than obvious signs of cosmetic wear, what are the distinctive mechanical signs that one should investigate. Obviously if the recoil spring is "shot" it shows signs of use, but I am looking at signs of excessive wear and abuse. Just asking.
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Howdy DocBoss, I woild like to welcome you to the forum.
Aside from the good points that Richard has already made, just look at the slide fit. Is it tight side to side? If they will NOT disassemble, pull the slide back as far as it will go and hold it back tightly in your hand. Now look at the rails. Is there excessive wear, deep gouges, any cracks showing? Frame Cracks usually show somewhere near the slide rails or dustcover (under the recoil spring), so inspect these areas well.
Check the ejection port for any alteration. Look at firing pin and firing pin hole for "truing" or enlarging of hole. Look at bolt face for scratches, gouges, corrosion.
Use your finger to gently tug on extrator for tension (good) and inspect for abuse. Push on ejector, to make sure it's not loose.
Look slide over for hairline cracks; especially at back of slide and underneath when you pull slide back and hold it back. Look close at that flat area that cocks the hammer and the rails in the inside at the rear.
Inspect the bore of the barrel. A gun dealer will have a bore light. Pull slide back enough to slip the light in the chamber and look down the bore. You do not want to see any rust pitting/corrosion. Dirty, and copper fouling is acceptable, but use that to your advantage in negotiations.
If a bore light is not available, hold the slide back and stick one of your fingers in the bolt area so that your fingernail faces the chamber. Hold the bore directly under a light source (usually the flourescent lights) and you can see fairly well.
Pull the mag, inspect the mag. Is it beat up? If so, my intenae go up. Check the feed lips, press the floor plate for tension. Now look at the mag chute on the gun. Look inside well. Look for scratches, look for any rust, dirt in the mainspring. Press on mag release with thumb. It should be tight. Slide mag in to test for a solid hold.
It is VERY poor etiquette to pull triggers and snap the firing pins on anyone else's gun without asking for permission first. If you are a serious buyer, it is usually not a problem. By all means do so. All R9's should have a nice long smooth as butter trigger.
With trigger pulled half way inspect hammer and firing pin area from the back. Look for "peening - bad", on both hammer face and where it strikes the firing pin.
I'm sure I missed something here. It is very late. Others may add to this list.
It took 4 times longer to type this 2 times longer to read this than it will to do the actual inspection. So please don't be intimidated.
Also, it is can be insulting to bring a set of Visi-Visors (Jewlers/Gunsmith magnified visors), but a neat tirck is to bring a pair of extra strong reading glasses, They really help in finding cracks and imperfections and such. The seller will never be the wiser.
Good Luck :)
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Reinz:
You have literally "written the book" on purchasing a used firearm. The guidance in my posts is superficial in comparison. I'm printing your post for the archives I shall leave to that heir most in favor at the time of my demise. 8)
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POW! What a list. This is what I was seeking (I think). I will give this list to a local Rohrbaugh dealer to have him evaluate the R9 I am considering (from a different dealer). Too bad the company does not offer some sort of warranty on exceptional preowned firearms. Heck, even Mercedes and Porsche give warranties on "Certified" cars. I hope it works out. My primary reason for looking at the R9 is it appears to be the only 9mm I want to carry when I ride my bike. :)
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It is my understanding that a warranty can be purchased from the Rohrbaugh factory for previously owned guns.
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That would be great! Thanks. I'll check into it. 8)
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Glad to be of help. Being a huge gun addict on the Road in the past for 20 years, I've hit a lot of pawn and gun shops. I've been stung just enough to learn what to look for. :)
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I looked through the forums but could not find the answer so excuse me for asking but can someone give me the approximate build date for R9S' with serial numbers in the 1250's and 1310's. Thanks.
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I looked through the forums but could not find the answer so excuse me for asking but can someone give me the approximate build date for R9S' with serial numbers in the 1250's and 1310's. Thanks.
Docboss,
It is difficult to associate exact dates with serial numbers but what I can tell you is R1000 (special engraved gun) to celebrate the 1000th R9 was displayed at Shot Show 2006 (Jan 2006). So my guess would be that both R1250 and R1310 would have been made at some point during 2006. I hope this helps.
There are a couple nice looking ones on GB right now with black CF grips for really reasonable prices.
Buy it Now: $900
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=320066534
(http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/320066000/320066534/pix660839607.jpg)
NR $770
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=318864054
(http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/318864000/318864054/pix387320462.jpg)
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This is my last question on this issue (I hope), before I look at a R9s tomorrow. Assuming the condition of the gun I view is excellent (it will be examined by a Rohrbaugh dealer) is there any advantages/disadvantages to buying a serial number in the 12xx range? For example, given that the gun was produced several years ago, have there been any changes in the way it is/was made. Is the machining better/worse? Changes in design, trigger, materials, "feel"? Even Rolex wristwatches change for the better/worse over the years. If I puchase the gun I do intend to send it in for the warranty ($150) and refurbishing. Thanks. Sorry for my ignorance in this matter. :-\
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Why not buy a new one with warranty included?
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It is really hard to find a new one for less than $1150. Locally they are $1275 plus tax. Yes, the money is really not an issue, but VALUE is. I figure I can get a used one, add VZ grips, a warranty, and a couple extra mags and still be ahead. Plus, as stated before, I think I would like to know if there is a difference based on production date. I mentioned Rolex watches earlier. The latest Rolex Daytona is a fine watch, but earlier models are considered superior because of a different movement. :-\
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docboss, a welcome from me as well.
Maybe the best place to get an answer to your last question is by calling Maria @ Rohrbaugh, she would know more about what changes if any have taken place
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Yes, Maria may be a good source of some information, but I would rather get info from owners. Is there someone out there who has owned/fired a #1200 and a #6000 R9s? How did they compare/contrast? Think 2006 BMW M3 vs. 2012 version. Same car (no) same name (yes). Personally I prefer the 2006. I am not taking this lightly. If I buy a Rohrbaugh I am depending on it to potentially save my life. KG ::)
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"Pulled the trigger" so to speak. After reading all the great comments in the forum and doing a little extra homework, I purchased a new Stealth. By the time I would have found and purchased a pre-owned R9S (standards are around $850-1000 and Stealths are almost non-existant on auction sites), added shipping and the cost of a warranty, a new one was not that much more money. I found a retailer that just received a shipment and the pricing was good. Hopefully it gets to my FFL in the next couple of days. I'll be on here soon with questions galore once I get to the range. "Can't wait!" ;D
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Congratulations on a wise decision.
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If the R9 you examine is in good condition and you intend to send it in for refurbishing and the purchase of a new warranty, you can't go wrong regardless of the serial number. Go for it.
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Congrats on your new stealth. Did you receive yet?
May as well go ahead and order a set a VZ Carbon Fiber grips for it. They WIll enhance the performance considerably.
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Yes. I received it just a few days after the order was placed. In fact, Erik at Cove Creek Outfitters was great. I had contacted him via email a few weeks ago. He told me there were some ordered but did not know the delivery date, so I looked elsewhere. Just before I purchased a standard from a local dealer, Erik called. I purchased the Stealth at 11AM, got a shipping confirmation including tracking number by 4PM and it was at my FFL two days later. That is service! I took it apart, cleaned it very thoroughly with Simple Green (it was really oily) and gave it a "Frog Lube" treatment. My schedule has prevented me from getting to the range until later today (hopefully), but my initial reactions are:
1. The gun is really tight. I am anxious to see how the Frog Lube works. The Steath finish is nice but the rails are already scuffed.
2. The grips will require replacement. VZ looks good. Why the Carbon Fiber over the other models? I would think the textured is better as they list it as "very grippy". I suspect a firm modified Weaver stance will be required. Forget regular finger pad placement on the trigger. Trigger seems very smooth.
3. Major PIA to reassemble only because the rear of the Recoil Assembly in the Slide is tough to line up into the frame. I did finally figure it out, but with much swearing.
I will try Speer GD 115 and 147's with some Winchester White Box's and report. If I can handle the recoil of 357's in a Scandium J Frame, I should be able to handle the Rohrbaugh. ;)